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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Original TF Water Pump Spindle

The following two pics are of original spindles from two original TF water pumps. It's interesting to note that they are not exactly alike. In the first pic it will be seen that the larger hole in the top shaft more or less aligns with the keyway, while the shaft below has the larger hole offset about 90 degrees. The relationship of the two holes to each other in both shafts however appears to be identical. The only other perceptible difference is that the "break" in the shoulder, ( i.e. the thickest part of the shaft), more or less aligns with the keyway in the bottom shaft but is slightly offset on the one on the top. As the functions of the shaft to the left (bearings) & right (water seal) of the shoulder are totally unrelated the fact that the holes are offset seems irrelevant. The hole closest to the end secures the impeller & the larger hole secures that part of the seal which was secured to the shaft. I have no idea of the purpose of the interruption in the shoulder, unless it's there to assist in the removal of the small circlip adjacent.

I plan to have some of these turned up in stainless. The rod in 304 is available for less than $20/metre. It seems more economic to have 8 made from the metre at the same time as much of the cost is in the set up. The only supplier that I could find of these shafts charge about 100 Euros in mild steel, which is way out of my price range. If anyone is interested in one I'll pass it on at 1/8th of the total cost plus shipping. Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

Pic 2

P Hehir

Peter

For the small price differential I would be using 316 grade. Material costs are relatively small compared to the fabrication charges.

This link explains why I recommend this choice for better corrosion resistance.

http://www.atlassteels.com.au/site/pages/stainless-steel-datasheets.php
G Evans


Peter, those shafts pictured are not the ones I've seen on later TDs and TFs. The late ones I've had in my hand before don't have the hole in them for the seal. I believe the ones you have pictured are Early TD or TC.
The interruption (or groove) in the raised part of the shaft is for the part 19 or 55 washer which has a tang that fits in the groove so it turns with the shaft. ( See Abingdon web page: http://abingdonspares.com/parts-catalog/cooling-system-page-7/

When you have them made, the last hole should be omitted, because it is drilled after the bearings are all in and the shaft nut is tightened. The hole is drilled during final assembly for the roll pin after the impeller is fitted and thrust clearance established. Reason, there were various different dimensional impellers produced.

When I was a young man and parts were available, I use to rebuild mine or friends pumps quite often, and I ruined a few learning how.
Richard Cameron

Great info Richard! It all makes sense. It seems the early & late shafts were/are the same length apart from the differences you've mentioned? As I'm yet to pull either version apart, I'm on a steep learning curve. I really appreciate your response & note your advice re the impeller hole. It's perfectly logical to locate & fix the impeller in the manner you've mentioned. Many thanks. I'll definitely buy the 316 stock Graeme. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter,

I agree with Richard. If they are the shafts I sent you, they are from the EARLY type pump. They have the hole for the cross pin which "keys" the carbon seal to the shaft.

Bob Schapel
R L Schapel

Indeed they are Bob. Thanks again. I'd assumed they were for the TF pump, though the additional hole for the carbon seal should have alerted me. As I said above, a steep learning curve! When I get to John's I'll be able to compare both type of spindles. (I've used some toolbox 1/4" woolen felt off cuts to make a few of the felt washers. This material was the same density but about twice as thick as the original felt so I split it quite easily with a razor blade). Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

I'd love to see a source for quality spindles (later TD/TF versions). Mine was quite corroded; I had Butch Taras make me a replacement, as my mini-lathe really doesn't have the power to do high quality steel or stainless. BTW, to try to avoid corrosion in the future, I'm using a product called "No-Rosion". Unlike the "waterless" products, it works with normal water+antifreeze, but claims to inhibit corrosion. We'll see... in about 20 years :)
Geoffrey M Baker

Hi Peter. Please see the attached photo. The two shafts on the left are the two variations of the TD/TF shafts. As you can see one has a raised portion machined into the shaft. The other has a clip that is squeezed into the groove and a sleeve slipped over the shaft, costs less. The third from the left is a nos shaft from a repair kit from a TC. The last shaft is a replacement shaft that I made for pumps I repair. It's made from 302 stainless steel. As was stated before the hole for the pin is drilled after the shaft is assembled to the impeller. Then you use a #0 taper reamer to get the taper pin to fit correctly.

Butch

R Taras

Thanks Butch. I'll add it to my collection of info on the early & late pumps. I plan to use a stainless rolled pin to secure the impeller, as there is less mucking about with trial fitting the taper pin & using the tapered reamer. Do you see a problem with that? Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Hello Peter. Here are a couple pictures of an TC water pump repair kit. I got the felt pieces switched and the brass cupped washer should come after the spring. The brass washer prevents the spring from cutting thru the rubber seal that sits under the carbon seal and seals the shaft and the bottom of the carbon seal. The seat that the carbon is actually part of the casting not a pressed in part.

R Taras

Hi Butch. The brass washer on the TC pump I just had dismembered was a brass circle about 3/8" tall & about 1/32" thick. The carbon seat that you mention as being part of the casting now makes sense as it's not shown on any of the drawings. The contents of that TC pump are shown below. Stainless rolled pin OK? Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

Tried to load two more pics but no joy. I'll try again later. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Hi Peter. A SS roll pin should be ok. My only concern is cavitation.

Butch
R Taras

This thread was discussed between 02/02/2016 and 06/02/2016

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