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MG TD TF 1500 - Pedal Shaft Mod- Late RHD TD

Does any one have the correct measurements to drill these holes in the pedal shaft?
Mine is a RHD car and this makes it a little easier.
I have a new shaft but need to drill the holes and fit the grease zerk.
Not really sure if X groves are absolutely necessary or if a single grove around the shaft in line with the holes would be easier to fabricate.
Be nice to have this ready before I rip it all out.

Rod

Rod Jones

This is the measurement I need to know
Tanks

Rod Jones

As close to the center of the brake pedal bushing as possible.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

http://www.ttalk.info/PedalShaftDelk.htm has the rest of the info, but I don't see the dimension. Bud
Bud Krueger

I think that I just assembled the shaft with the pedals out of the car to get those measurements, but it’s not critical as long as the holes are somewhere near the centre of each pedal bush. I didn’t bother with the X grooves and just cut a concentric ring, which seems perfectly adequate.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Mine is a LHD. But I did the mod.
Drilled a "3rd" hole and cut grooves.


M Grogan TD23816

Thanks Guys,
Bud,
I did take the drawing form your site :) Thanks... but unfortunately it only shows photoes of a left hand shaft. Maybe I should send you photos of mine when I get it out and have had it drilled.
As Dave H said it is probably not that critical as long as they are somewhere near the center of the bushings.
Rod
Rod Jones

Good idea, Rob. Bud
Bud Krueger

I think the third hole is a good idea, but can be smaller as it does not sit inside a bronze bush, but is in a loose fitting tube.
Dave H
Dave Hill

A profesionnal mechanic did mine. No groove. He only milled a plate surface along the two bushes.
According to him the problem with grooves is that there is always one which takes all the grease and there is nothing left for the other one.

Now I've got no play in the pedal but I sometime have a small creaking. Maybe because of brand new bushes...

Laurent.

LC Laurent31

For Rod, I am not sure you have been given the measurements you want, so does the attached help.

R A WILSON

One of the other comments indicates that with the grease nipple outside you have to cut away part of the wing / fender. I put a right angle grease nipple on the inside, as in this attachment, and it is not that difficult to reach with a grease gun. I only have a single cross drilling for each pedal, but without taking the system apart I do not know their exact positions, nor do I know if each cross drilling goes all the way across.

R A WILSON

Thanks Mr. Wilson
That is goo information.
The measurements I don't believe are that critical but it would be nice to have the holes in the middle of the bushing.
Good to know the bushings are the same size and I therefor deduce the pedals are the same width as well? Not like the LHD set.
I have a late type TD and the wing has the cut away already. Though I have to admit it is still a stretch to get to the zerk when fitted on the outside. The cutaway in my wing does no clear the shaft end, but it is accessible.
Thanks
Rod
Rod Jones

You must be up at the crack of dawn, or very late at night.
R A WILSON

The shaft is on the car but the pedal box is open at that time so I can measure very roughly 18mm and 47.5 mm from the end oof the shaft.
Not an acurate measurement but probably enough if you haven't got the pedals for your shaft.

Laurent.

LC Laurent31

I scribed my new pedal shaft with a spiral groove, about 1958, and have used Moly Disulphide grease ever since - Never had a problem, and I have abt 350,000 miles on my TF.

But replacing the woodruff key is, in my opinion, the dirtiest job on a T-Series.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

Not got in there yet, but is it correct to say there is only one spacer (thrust washer) between the two pedals?
I unfortunately have to send my shaft out to get the drilling and grooving done - as I don't have the right equipment to do that.
Be nice to do it before taking the car off the road.
Thanks for the all info to date.
Seems the RHD set up is a tad easier then the LHD. No woodruff keys :)
There is a South West Florida Sun News Paper show on Saturday I have been requested to attend. So next week everything gets torn down and replaced. Brake system as well.
Still waiting for a quote form a machine shop on the drilling costs.
This is the drawing to ident what is needed. The actual numbers can be changed once confirmed. If you see any errors - please let me know. It is not to scale.
Be interesting to see what it costs. Shame Moss dont sell the shaft alread drilled for what they ask for it.
But Hey.....

Rod


Rod Jones

Rod,
one washer between pedals and one between brake lever and chassis tube.
Fitted new shaft and bushing in a mates car last week.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

That's a CAD drawing if ever I saw one - comments are;
1. Only one washer between my pedals, and probably one at the inner end - my installation has too much grease to decide. I would not really call them thrust washers, they are only steel washers.
2. 'Brake' is correctly spelt, but it is spelt incorrectly in two other places.
3. Never heard of a Zerk - we call them grease nipples.
4. Bushings - engineers over here would say bush or bushes, and they would know from the conversation that they were not talking about their gardens.
5. Something odd about the word 'circlip' on the left hand side - there is a black line through the word, and small circles around.
6. If the shafts were for sale I would want them drilled through and threaded at each end - the same thread should be used, with one grease nipple and one plug. Then I could decide which end I wanted the grease nipple, and I could push a rod through to clear any blockage (I have that on mine, although I forgot to show it on my sketch).
R A WILSON

Does anybody have a drawing of the LHD version?
Looking at the price it might be worthwhile making a batch with the grooves and the holes in the right place.

Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

Thanks Ray,
I just guessed where the washers should go. In the L.H.D. photo in this thread from Thierry from France,
https://www2.mgcontact.eu/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=21790
it shows two but in a different configuration.

Mr. Wilson :)
Yes - never professed to be a good speller.. lol
The doc is made with MS Publisher. Hardly CAD but it is just to give the machine shop the basic layout.
Googled Zerk and it says "Oscar U. Zerk was born in Austria but lived in the United States. In the 1920's, while working for the Alamite Corporation, he invented the. Zerk fitting. He died in 1968 ... and probably ... Mr Zerk's US patent 1,619,454 for a lubricant receiving nipple was filed on 05 July 1923 and granted on 01 March 1927."
I agree with the fitting of a Zerk at both ends. One forms the stop for the other and you would have the choice of where to fill with grease. I wonder how much that would add to the machinist bill?

Rod


Rod Jones

No washer between pedals on mine because Moss's bushings are slightly wider than the pedal itself. The bushing is sliding along the other one. Bronze against bronze. No problem.
LC Laurent31

Declan,
Did you have a look at the LHD Shaft Assy. link above? - There is a drawing in there for it. Not sure if it is to scale or not.
Rod
Rod Jones

A grease nipple at each end would be very appropriate, but I should mention that I have removed the pedal box from my car - I consider it only holds dirt, stones, damp and hardened grease. Thus there is nothing to foul my inside grease nipple, and it also makes the grease nipple easy to reach. If you still have your pedal box, at the inner end you may need to fit a very small grease nipple to clear, or fit a plug.
R A WILSON

Rod,
I had a look at that drawing for the LHD shaft and redrew it in my CAD system. There are a few dimensions missing e.g woodruff key thickness and the size and position of the grease drilling on the shaft end for the pedal lever. I doubt if that is critical. After polishing up my rather rusted French and reading laboriously through that thread there appears to be an error. They list the shaft diameter as 19.9mm OD and the chassis bushings at 19.8mm ID. They also discuss reaming the bushes in situ.
I'm not quite sure about that and have my doubts.
There are no dimensions for the pedal lever but I could scale it up. Perhaps Thierry de l'Ardèche
can follow up on that as it is in his neck of the woods.

Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

We noticed the Moss bushes were too long so machined them to fit with the washers.
Ray
Ray Lee

Hi Declan,

If you are considering making new pedal assemblies I am sure that with your capabilities you could redesign the entire set up. If I was to rebuild a T Series I would certainly cut out the entire pedal box and start again.

I do remember that when I rebuilt the TF removing the shaft was a terrible job, even with the body off. I recall undercutting part of the shaft that fits in the chassis to help prevent future seizing.

Cheers

Jan
J Targosz

When I did my first rebuild in 1975 I could not drive out the shaft and it mushroomed before it moved. I drilled a 1/2" hole into the end and with heat it came out.
I remembered this 2 weeks ago when working on my friends TF. I took round my pneumatic hammer which must have frightened it as it just slid out!.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Ray
If you could bring it round to my place I'd be very grateful. :)
Starting the job next week....

Rod
Rod Jones

Well
The Pedal shaft came out really easy.
Tapped it through form the outside and then just pulled it on out.
The measurement of 3/4" and 2" from the end of the shaft for the corss holes are within a 1/8" of bush center and for me, will do just fine. There is also only one spacer betweem the pedals. The Bush in the brake pedal was slightly longer on the side that touches the tube in the chassis Which is not a bad thing.
Local firm to me in Punta Gorda said thay charge $85 an hour and will do the job.
The surrise was that the shaft and bushes on the original were really not that bad. The side motion at the pedal head was only about 1/4".
What was in there, would obviously out last my time with the car. But at least I have the satisfaction of knowing it is fixed properly now. Also the Brake System is completely replaced with brass lined cylinders, Master is also sleeved, new hoses and new shoes. I am hoping I will not have to go down this road again.

Rod


Rod Jones

If the author of the image would please send me an email containing a graphic image with permission to publish it on Ttalk I'd be happy in insert it. Please send it to budkrueger@comcast.net . Bud
Bud Krueger

See http://www.ttalk.info/PedalShaftRHD.html for Rod's contribution. There are links to the original LHD Lenk paper at http://www.ttalk.info/PedalShaftDelk.htm. Bud
Bud Krueger

A couple more images from Rod http://www.ttalk.info/PedalShaftRHD.html Bud
Bud Krueger

This thread was discussed between 05/02/2018 and 22/02/2018

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