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MG TD TF 1500 - Pilot Bushing

I have my transmission our for repairs so I am also changing the clutch which isn't real bad but might as well while it is handy. I am wondering, should the pilot bearing be lubed? If so what with?

Thanks
Bill TD24570
Bill Brown

A new pilot bushing is very little money; while you are right there, replace it. Wear is almost impossible to see when it is in the crank.

I soak them in oil for a few days before I install them (forcing oil through with the fingers never seems to work for me), and then I put a SMALL smear of lithium grease on the transmission input shaft. SMALL - the last thing you want is centrifugal force throwing excess grease all over the clutch.

Now is also the time to check the flywheel condition; if it is uneven or has hard spots, this is the time to remove it and have it re-surfaced. And if it needs that, you really ought to have it lightened and balanced.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Tom, Thanks for the help.

Bill TD24570
Bill Brown

Well...
After a lot of time and effort with a bearing puller and slide hammer, pin and grease and finally hack saw blade and small chisel, the spigot bushing is finally out.
On installing the new bushing, i have a .625 dia. pin which I'll have in the bushing to attempt to maintain the i.d. of the bushing while driving in. My question is wether or not to use a thread locker on the bushing o.d.. Your thoughts?

Thanks,
Bill TD24570
Bill Brown

Stick it in the freezer if you think it'll need "driving in." Loc-tite or whatever is up to you. I see I just installed one in a new crank and don't recall any preparation, just tunked it in so I wouldn't lose it; thank goodness, cause I was looking around for it and thought I'd misplaced it!

What I do plan to do is anoint it with a smear of some moly-lube or a grease mixed with graphite. Graphite & molybdenum disulfide are solid lubricants so a touch of one in grease will lubricate and protect the best against wear for my lifetime and then some.

For anyone planing to extract a bushing in the future, the archives must have suggestions. One trick is to stuff the old bushing and crank cavity with grease and lightly (got thrust bearing surfaces in there, don't forget) drive a bar (that fits the bushing ID) into the bushing and the hydraulic force will pump the bushing out.
JIM N

Thanks Jim,

My bushing wasn't really that bad of shape, maybe .002 wear but decided while the transmission was out, go ahead and change it along with the clutch. I tried to hydraulic it out with grease and a up to size pin but it would not move. Ended up with a hack saw blade and digging it out. I did not want to do that but I had the bushing so destroyed, that was the last resort. Fortunately no damage to the i.d. of the crank. Great tip on freezing the bushing.

Bill TD24570
Bill Brown

I don't bother with any sealant on the bushing; as you have observed it's pretty tight, and doesn't spin.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Just make sure it doesn't go in upside down or backwards!
JIM N

"Just make sure it doesn't go in upside down or backwards!"
Yes, that could ruin your hole day - Shame on you Jim - (I love it). Cheers - Dave
D.W. DuBois

Pleased to see "might as well while it is handy". If it has taken me more than an hour to dismantle something I have always replaced bearings and wearable parts with new items of the highest quality. New old stock wheel bearings no problem, clutch pressure plate, friction plate and release bearing only the best will do.

Jan T
J Targosz

One tip on removing pilot bushings... I've tried the dowel and grease method and it can be effective, however a much easier and less messy way is to use a hydraulic tappet slide-hammer style puller. It is just the right size for most LBCs and will remove even the most stubborn bushes with relative ease.

Kevin McLemore

This thread was discussed between 16/05/2017 and 31/05/2017

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