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MG TD TF 1500 - Pulling the block 51TD

OK, I'm starting a new thread so people don't have to read through a lot of unrelated stuff to the question at hand (along with making it easier for people searching archives.)
I'm including a picture from Dave Braun's site here (thanks Dave!!!)
As I can see, it looks like 4 long bolts hold the block to the flywheel case and gearbox. I can see two of these from underneath and can remove them easily, but I'm presuming I need to remove some sections from the passenger cabin to remove the two top bolts. What do I need to take out to access these? I'm just trying to avoid removing too much...

Geoffrey M Baker

Those long bolts are probably in there for alignment ,,there are regular bolts that hold the BELL HOUSING to the BLOCK,, they should be accessed when the trannie tunnel is removed,,

STEVE
Steve Wincze

Thanks, Steve. I think you are right about the long bolts, mine just have short bolt heads protruding.
Geoffrey M Baker

Note;
The bell housing to block and oil pan are "Mad Metric" bolts.

Keep them segregated and grouped.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

One thing to be carefull about,, usually the engines are pulled using brackets that attach to the head bolts,,, If you are going to pull it the way Dave did, leave the front engine mount in place,,, this will prevent the front cable from slipping off!! And thusly dropping the engine,,

Make sure that the rear cable is not able to slip either,,,,,

It's not going to just pull out, there will need to be some sort of rocking, and tilting necessary to clear everything like the frame and bulkhead.

SAFETY FIRST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Steve Wincze

It might seem like a no brainer, but make sure that you have enough room to roll the hoist with the engine away from the car. OR,,, enough room to roll the car backward. The steel wheels on a loaded engine hoist don't like to roll over cracks in the floor.

Steve
Steve Wincze

Remove the Rad. Remove the tunnel carpet, remove the "snug", remove the shift extension. This will allow the tunnel to be removed after removing all the tunnel fasteners. You will then be able access the bell housing bolts. The ones into the block are a different size than the ones into the sump, so keep them separate.

I went to a safety supply store and bought two nylon hoisting straps 1"x48" rated 3000 lbs ea. to sling the engine and attached them to an equalizer for the shop crane. Note: I had to have the front wheels of the TD on wood blocking to raise it so the shop crane would fit under it.

Using the slings (I was surprised at how inexpensive they were) the engine is well secured for the lift and the equalizer helps in tilting the engine to manoeuvre it out. It can be done safely by one person.

The steering column has to be disconnected from the rack and pulled back.
...CR
C.R. Tyrell

And another tip : support the gearbox in the present situation so it cannot tilt forward Then remove the engine by sliding it forward first a bit . All the other suggestions are top notch.

Gerard
Gerard Hengeveld

The engine is out. As suggested, it was easier than it looked. Radiator, head, starter motor, oil pump, oil filter, sump, and pistons had all been previously removed.
I removed the heater, the carpeting, and the gearshift knob. I was able to pull out the transmission cover easily (largely because only two screws were holding it in place) and then access the bolts, which all came off easily. I removed the bolts holding the engine front to the rubber mounting block, and the engine was now free to move.
Then I tied the exhaust pipe to one side and tied rope around the engine block front and back, and then secured that to a 2x4. Then a friend and I got the 2x4 over our shoulders, and were able to simply rock it loose, then walk it out without difficulty. (I did not need to disconnect the steering column).
Woohoo!
And best of all, the crankshaft is intact, and the inside of the block looks fine! (Once the engine was out of the car, all I needed to do to remove the crankshaft was to remove the bearings, and the flywheel and the crank slid out easily).
(Maybe I didn't have to take it all apart after all :) Not really, the cam damage HAS to be thoroughly inspected and measured, and the crank may need regrinding; it all has to be looked at by an expert.

Now onto the next step... taking it all into a shop, sometime this week, I hope...
Geoffrey M Baker

"The bell housing to block and oil pan are "Mad Metric" bolts."
All the engine fasteners are Mad Metric.

Jeff - See the chart, Fasteners for XPAG/XPEG Engines in the Other Tech Articles section of my Homepage at: http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ You can print it our to use for your project. Cheers - Dave
D W DuBois

You didn't have to touch the interior to unbolt the bell housing. You can just reach in there and remove them from the engine bay side!
2:26

Congratulatiions on your big 4 cyl. tooth extraction.
Those "long bolts" in Dave's photo are the manifold studs borrowed from the heads to guide the engine & tranny together. They can help you ease the engine and trans back together when the time comes!
Proceed under the assumption that all you need is new rings, bearing & gaskets. Don't assume you need a huge overhaul project unless you confer with your buddys, here!
First off, it sounds like your bores are barely worn. Since you live outside of Michigan, you can save pretty good on ordering from Little British Car Co (LBCC). Mike pistons & bores yourself or get existing dimensions/ specs from your machinist and report back here. Since you report your jounals have very superficial grooves, you may not need grinding/oversized bearings, but take it in stride if machinist recommends/insists. Not that big of deal! We all want what's best for you (not what's best for the machine shop).
You seem to be fluent on www2.mg-cars.uk so stay in touch and you'll be back on the road very soon, and for a long time afterwards!
JRN JIM

Goeff,
Congrates!! The "human 2 x 4 engine hoist system" works fine for removal,,, but now that it is out, look around for an engine hoist to put it back in!! The 2 x 4 human system will not work as well when it comes to putting it back in!! You are going to need a lot more wiggeling and angeling to get everything aligned and installed.

Steve
Steve Wincze

can any one else see the post from

2:26, arial small, threadlist
??
Steve Wincze

I did a search and answered my question,,


Posted 24 March 2015 at 20:30:11 UK time
2:26, arial small, threadlist
@James, tried it but the customization screen is not working for me. I've emailed the webmaster so hopefully he can shed some light on the issue.

Steve

Steve Wincze

Steve, I can see it. Looks like another forum bug...

Yes, I can see that it won't be so easy to get back in! Which is OK, I have a line on a possible engine hoist I may be able to borrow when the time comes. On Saturday or Tuesday I'll attend the LBC car club meet here in Tucson and hope to get to meet a guy who regularly loans out his. (It's on loan right now, but when the time comes it may be available).

Geoffrey M Baker

The 2:26 post was me. Seems to be back to normal for the moment, although customization screen is still wacky. No response from the webmaster.
Steve Simmons

This thread was discussed between 25/03/2015 and 26/03/2015

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