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MG TD TF 1500 - Radiator nuts - How tight?

Any recommendations on how tight the top nut that secures the radiator to the radiator support should be on my TF? (The yellow nut at box #53 in the diagram.)

Rubber spacers (#50) and a thick washer (#52) are above the nut, so I tightened it until it touches the washer, then I cinched the nut in place with the locknut that is below it. (the white #53 nut)

Thanks,

Lonnie
TF7211
TF681

LM Cook

Lonnie, this is an “eyeball” one. The weight of the radiator is doing most of the work. “Tight enough to do the job, not so tight the rubber shock mounts cannot do theirs.” Hence the second lock nut. Just tight enough to keep it from shifting around.

Regards, Tom
tm peterson

On a somewhat related question:

When I restored my car back in the early 70's both sets of rubber shock mounts had the compression rings on them. Clearly the upper ones would stay in place but the bottom ones could conceivable fall out.

Do others have 4 of these rings too?

Not sure what the rings are for on the bottom but perhaps the originals were different than what is sold today. The original rings might have been molded into the rubber vs just slipped over the rubber.

Anyway, maybe the tightness needed is to compress the rubber enough to tighten around the rings but not to the point you flatten the rubber to the ring.
Christopher Couper

Thanks Tom, that's why I didn't squeeze the rubbers tight.

Chris - Yes, all four of the rubbers have metal rings. On the ones that I removed and on the two sets that I bought from the major suppliers. The rings on the old set seemed to be slightly smaller diam and were much harder to remove from the rubber than the rings on the new rubbers.

I assume, as you, that they are to keep the rubbers from blowing apart from weight or overtightening. BUT now you have me questioning if I didn't tighten them enough to secure the rings. The weight of the radiator will expand the top rubbers. The bottom rings and rubber won't expand unless I tighten the nuts more. Tighten more? SuperGlue? Forget about it? Whatever, it's much easier to do now while the bumper and backer are off.

Lonnie
TF7211
TF681
LM Cook

I agree with thee guys - a real 'eyeball' situation. I just finished installing my new aluminium radiator in my TF and was seriously concerned about all the attachments.

But all has turned out well.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

A few minutes ago, (based on Chris’ post) I loosened the radiator nuts, ran them up finger tight against the washer, then tightened a half-turn. Is it better? Who knows. I feel better.

Lonnie
TF7211
TF681
LM Cook

Lonnie,

About 15 years ago I removed the radiator to replace the timing chain and tensioner. I just fitted the new radiator support kit without giving it a second thought. Last winter I removed the radiator to change the water pump, the support assembly didn't move in all that time. So I don't think that you need to be pedantic. I do however have one comment when reassembling, fit the radiator and the bonnet (hood) panels then adjust the gaps BEFORE fitting the cooling hoses.

John
J Scragg

Good point John.

Didn’t change the position of the rad supports. I’ll learn if everything is still good when I attach body panels and bonnet (again) as the restoration.

No time for measurements. Had to attach hoses while the engine builder was here installing and running the engine.

Lonnie
TF7211
TF681
LM Cook

As long as the nuts are tight against the rubbers and external rings they should stay put. The flat washers aren't shown in the pic. I double nutted mine. PJ

PJ Jennings

This thread was discussed between 17/07/2022 and 19/07/2022

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