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MG TD TF 1500 - Radiator Slats

Whilst removing the old slats on my 53 TD I found one of the fixing posts had come unsoldered at the bottom.
So I figured I cannot heat it up to replace it, as that would damage the chrome finish. So I propose to JB Weld it in place. Is this a viable choice
Other Question
What is the thread of these posts? I would like to get some new nuts and washers that won't rust.
The new replacment slats are much beefer than the originals I had? Riveted and better shaped slats. They also definitely need to be fitted before having them Powder coated... Make the holes a tad larger to account for the paint when done.


Rod Jones

Not sure about the thread Rod but I did as you propose with a broken stud on my shell. Seems to have held OK. Yet to see new ones that have the same shape as the OEM slats as the AM versions seem much flatter. The originals had a nice curve that is missing on the replacements. Beefier ( and broader) may not be better as maximizing airflow over the radiator is the goal. The orientation of each slat in the vertical axis is as important as the ascetic. I shaped a piece of ply to fit snugly into the rear of the slat and added a handle to straighten mine a little and reduce the opposition to the airflow. Took quite a while to ensure that they were all parallel to each other. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

I don’t recommend it. I have a newly chromed shell that had a post come off and was JB Welded back in place by a PO. It did not hold and now I have to grind the epoxy off and risk damage to the shell anyway in order to solder a replacement in place. Solder has a low melting point and the heat necessary won’t discolor the chrome. What you do need is a BASI (big ar*e soldering iron).

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

The original studs holding the slats in place were 2BA. Not sure 2BA studs are readily available, you may have to resort to 10-32. cheers - Dave
DW DuBois

You could make your own nuts using a 2 BA tap and some brass flat bar. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Thanks Folks,
Will try the JB Weld first as I really don't want to have to re chrome the surround.
A BASI with a heat control would be nice Bill, but I don't have one. Cheaper then a re chrome though... :)
I have to admit Peter the new slats are a much better shape then the ones I took out. I think it will also pass more air. The whole thing is fabricated better. Not sure where made but I did have to trim the side slats to allow for a parallel fit and of cause all the holes needed a lot of work to fit my surround.
So far have not found a place that will powder coat the grill. Most common statement is "Sorry we only do industrial work." One other did not return my calls. Worst case I will just paint it my self.

Rod


Rod Jones

The old slats look like the very old repros that were available in the 70s. Curve looks very close to originals that I have. You may want to roughen the surrounding area of the shell, the tab/hole area of the slats and JB weld the stud and slats at the same time. That would put less pull on the stud. George
George Butz III

As luck would have it, I have a bunch of brass 2BA nuts from when I redid my window chrome strips.
They fit right on. Thanks Dave, would not have thought of it without your pointer.
Rod
Rod Jones

The curve on the new slats is like my originals, not your old repros...wasn't clear about that. George
George Butz III

That would seem logical George The slats I took out have bee in there since 1972 and have been tweaked a few times to get more air into the Rad. Hence the broken paint and rust. Figured as I was taking it all apart to change the water pump would get a new set and do the lot. These are substantially better than that which came out. Shape is more aerodynamic and gaps are better. Should be good for temps down here in Florida. :)

Rod Jones

Repair studs and nuts are available from "From The Frame Up" in Arizona.
Steve Simmons

This thread was discussed between 24/05/2018 and 26/05/2018

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