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MG TD TF 1500 - Rear mount fork

The rear mount fork (Moss 411-030) is to be too short to allow the bolt holding it to the support bracket to attached with a nut. The bolt on the rear mount fork has been cut off or broken off (the hole for the cotter pin is missing). I plan on welding on a new threaded section to the fork. If anyone has a rear mount fork laying around could you tell me the length of the threaded section. As much as I'd like a new one $58 is a little too steep.

Tim
TD12524

TW Burchfield

Make sure you have the rubbers in correctly. The blocks can orient two ways. And what looks right I found wasn't. The blocks placed correctly will allow you to thread the nut on readily. It took me several attempts to figure it out correctly.
W. A. Chasser Jr

I have a few spares for sale at a lot lower price.
garykrukoski at yahoo DOT com

Gary
gl krukoski

I also found that the replacement ones (from Moss at least) were too tall. I cut them down.

Lengthening the bolt puts the tail up where it shouldn't be. Not by much, but.....

...
MAndrus

x2 on rubbers in right... those look to be about 90 degrees out.
Dave Braun

Well I turned them 45, 90, 180 and inside out and I still couldn't get the bolt on the threaded section of the fork.

Tim
TD12524
TW Burchfield

My fork had the bolt bent and the threads stripped.

I cut the head off a BSF bolt, I cross drilled for a cotter pin, I cut the old shaft off (using a square collet and a lathe) and drilled out the remains.

I silver BRAZED the BSF bolt in.

Jim B.

Jim Benjamin

Jim, that's what I plan to do, albeit with much less sophisticated tools than yours. Beautiful job by the way.

Tim
TD12524
TW Burchfield

I had to round the bottom corner of the rubber to get them to seat properly basically the photo you show they are incorrectly positioned When seated correctly there won't be much rubber protruding above above the sheet metal. Take raise to figure it out or you won't get a good result. The nut will thread on correctly when the bushings are snugged up and only require a small amount of tension on the nut for the pin to be put in place excessive tension may put unnecessary strain on the casting and break it out under load.

Also make sure your engine torque rod bushings are in good condition and ensure that the engine sits in a neutral position when the torque arm bushing retention nuts are snugged. If the engine is allowed to flop back and forth because of bad mounts or bushings it will also cause failure of the tailhousing.

Regards

Bill Chasser Jr
TD4834
W. A. Chasser Jr

Bill, I have to agree with M Andrus. I think the blocks from Moss are too tall. I fitted the blocks in the holder every way possible and still they wouldn't allow the bolt to be threaded.

Tim
TD12524
TW Burchfield

I just used the Moss blocks on mine. If you round down the edge of the blocks that sit to the outside bottoms of the sheet metal piece they will let the nut be run on easily Admittedly it took me some head scratching before I figured it out.

Regards

Bill Chasser jr
Td4834
W. A. Chasser Jr

I believe I used the moss ones as well and they worked fine with out any modification. I slathered them up with silicon grease and installed the tip away from center a bit and then, when I put the trans on top, the fins indexed into the rubber and then with a slight tug it all snapped into place. I don't believe much force was required to start the bolt. However it has been a bit since I did that job last.

Alex
Alex Waugh

Mine were too big also. I think I used a bench grinder to relieve some of the rubber. George
George Butz

This thread was discussed between 23/07/2015 and 27/07/2015

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