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MG TD TF 1500 - Removing the Starter Cable

I've got most of the instrument cluster disconnected but the starter pull cable has just about defeated me. I've loosened the double screw barrel that connects the cable to the switch but the wrap around the cable does not want to come out of the barrel on the bracket just behind the starter switch. Should I just pull harder or is there a trick?

Thanks.

Jud
J. K. Chapin

I really need some help on this. The part where the cable refuses to let loose is the barrel in the back of the starter switch bracket (Moss part # 361-080 under "Air Cleaner & Fuel System). It's hard to get to under the bonnet but I can probably get better access by removing the fuel pump. What I don't know is whether it will come loose with just a strong pull or if it is otherwise attached.

Is the barrel part of the cable or part of the bracket?

Thanks.

Jud
J. K. Chapin

The male housing slips into the cup that is part of the bracket. Suggest penetrating oil soak. Try wrapping the cable with a rag and carefully using pliers to twist/pull. George
George Butz III

Jud,
If I understand you right the barrel attaches to the starter shaft with one screw and the cable is trapped in it with the other screw. The one nearest the cable.
You should be able to pull the cable out and it may be misshaped by the screw which could make it reluctant to exit. A good tug should get it.
You could remove the barrel from the starter shaft to get a better purchase on it.

Rod

Rod Jones

Thanks Rod. I got the double screw barrel (part 45 on your pic) loose by the hardest. It is the barrel (or cup as George called it) behind the bracket that the spiral winding goes into that won't let go. I'll try penetrating oil and firmer tugs as suggested by George.

Thanks.

Jud
J. K. Chapin

Thanks George for giving me the confidence to tug harder. A squirt of penetrating oil and a gentle tug was all it took.

Now, on to refurbishing the dash. The PO replaced the rexine dash with a plank of rather plain wood. It looks ok but is neither original nor spiffy. I planned to replace with a nice complimentary green vinyl but one of our club members said I should do the dash in high polished burl wood. I'm quite good with wood so the burl wood dash would be easy but it's sure not original. I'm still inclined toward the vinyl. I know it's not rexine but it's a lot closer than wood.

I'm soliciting votes:

1. High polish burl wood; or
2. Green vinyl.

Thanks for your input.

Jud

This is the best pic I have if the existing dashboard.


J. K. Chapin

Jud,
I refurbished my dashboard last autumn. I prefer the wood even though it is not original.
Regards
Declan

Declan Burns

The other side

Declan Burns

Not the best picture but you get the idea- mirror glossy finish. Craig Seabrook dash. Not original but what I like. George

George Butz III

I'm voting the other way. Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

Oh my!! Now I'm thinking maybe I make two - one in burl wood and one in vinyl and swap them out every six months.

Please keep the comments and votes coming.

Jud
J. K. Chapin

You asked for alternatives!

In MHO finely polished wood belongs in an an enclosed car.

If you can find older pictures of MG (and other) open performance cars of the prewar and post war time the dashes were often engine turned SS. In the period, the '50's, chrome was king.
Up until the late '60's Moss had them in their Catalog.
It's a big hit at the Hot Rod shows but may be an issue if you are looking to be totally authentic, as would the wooden dash.

My wife hates it since the glair bothers here eyes. She has MD.

I dont think this is a present day option. They are not available. I have only seen 2 on eBay in 10 years.

Jim B.








JA Benjamin

Jim, that's awesome but WAY TOO snazzy for me or my TD. Although I won't be going that route, the picture is a keeper.

Jud
J. K. Chapin

Thank you Jud.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

OK, everything has been disconnected and all the instruments are at the Nisonger instrument hospital. Now, if I can just remember which wire goes to what when the instruments come back (see pic [damn upside down iPhones]).

The dash board is out and it turns out that it is a solid cherry 1/2 inch plank. I think it will strip, refinish and polish up very nicely. The PO did not cut in a glove box and I haven't decided whether to risk cutting one in or not. I've also considered using that blank space in front of the passenger for additional instruments and accessories. I'm thinking a volt meter and cigarette lighter. I'll probably just leave it blank and experiment on a new vinyl covered dash.

Jud


J. K. Chapin

This thread was discussed between 28/01/2020 and 30/01/2020

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