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MG TD TF 1500 - Restoring D2A4 distributor for TF

The body was loose on the core, so fixed that by drilling a 4mm hole through the base of the body into the core, stopping just short of the bush, then tapped 2BA. Next drilled a countersink, cleared the hole and fitted a brass csk 2BA screw. Very solid now.
Next step was to check the fit of the spindle in the bush and I can feel a trace of movement. Not essential to replace, but I would like to try. Part number for the bush is 420064 and unlike that in the WSM for the TD is a single bush 60mm long. Looked for the correct part, but no joy, also looked for a suitable oilite bush, but no joy there either. But is it an oilite bush - anyone know? If not I can make one from brass.
Naturally various other minor parts worn out but fixable. Action plate needs welding up as the holes are oval, and the weights need replacing/ repairing (found one of the correct type so far!).
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave,

From memory,I think the long TF 40367 Distributor Bush is an oilite.

After the pinning exercise, you may need to check whether the shaft is actually central. The rotor may abraid some of the distributor cap internal contacts if it is not central.

The action plate can also work loose on the distributor shaft. Crimped on originally. This can be welded back to the shaft for a solid fit.

Cheers
Rob Grantham
Rob Grantham

Thanks. The earlier distributor used oilite (2 x short bushes), but I'm less sure about this one. I think the shaft is central, but definitely worth checking. There was no lateral movement, and it was only possible to move the alloy body relative to the core by clamping in a vice and applying quite a lot of force. The action plate is very firm on the spindle, so no issue there at present. I guess the real question is whether a plain brass bush would do the job? I think it would. As you will know the spindle has a spiral lubrication groove to help.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave,

If it is a TF 40367, originally the bush was the long one, not two(2) short bushes.

Cheers
Rob Grantham
Rob Grantham

Yes its a 40367. My note above was not meant to infer that there were 2 short bushes, I meant to refer to the fact that they were oilite bushes. My distributor definitely has one long bush, but its not clear to me if its oilite or not.
Just as a matter of detail, the spindle has two bearing zones at full diameter, with relief between. This has me thinking that it may be possible to replace the single long bush with the two separate bush arrangement. These may be easier to find.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Another thought is to remove the long bush (intact hopefully), cut in half and reverse the two halves so that the unworn sections are top and bottom. Cunning eh?
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave send me I pic of the weight, I may have one in my "one day" pile.
I think the spiral is to screw oil out of the dizzy.
Ray TF2884
Ray Lee

Dave,

The Lucas parts manual refers to the bush as "Porous bronze bearing" We can assume that this means oilite.
There Are 2 different part numbers, (with different dimensions) for this bush on the 40367 unit, depending on the suffix, here are the details.

40367 suffix A & B P/N 420064: I/D=0.490" O/D=0.750" Length=2.420"
40367 suffix D to H P/N 419430: I/D 0.490" O/D=0.750" Length=2.473"

I am sure the you can find these bushes and also the lead weights from the Distributor Doctor.

You also mentioned that you will weld the wear in the backstop holes of the plate, another option is to open them so that they are round again and force fit a bush on the stop pin on the weights.

John
J Scragg

Thanks all. The weight has a ref no 418321 cast into it, so should be easy to identify Ray. Yes, you are no doubt right about the spiral.
I have 40367A, so the correct bush number is 420064, but the other could easily be shortened to fit. Thanks for the dimensions. I measured the spindle at 0.488" / 12.38mm, but was not entirely sure of the OD whilst still in the core.
I'll try Martin Jay if all other routes fail.
The idea of enlarging the holes and fitting bushes on the stop pins is a winner! I had been wondering how I was going to get around the fact that there is severe wear on each and they are a bit small and fiddly to do anything other than sleeve them.
Just in case anyone wonders where I put the screw that locks the alloy body to the steel core. Well there is only one place it can go that is easy to do. Its most sense to do the job using a bench drill and a drill vice to hold the distriibutor body. Lay the distributor body flat side down, and level it up with packing and a spirit level, so that its clamped between the top and the rim at the base, then centre the drill dead centre on the area immediately below the oil drip hole. Drill a 4mm hole through the alloy until you abruptly hit the steel core, then drill another 5mm only and stop. Tap 2BA and countersink. Fit a brass csk screw approx 12mm long.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave,
got two you can have complete with the brass spring links. email me your address to
raybar2@tiscali(dot)co(dot)uk and I will send them to you.
They have 418321 and R9 just below.
Ray
Ray Lee

Brilliant Ray. Thanks.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave,
Bits in the post, no charge (what goes around comes around)
Ray
Ray Lee

Thanks Ray.
John the OD of the bush I have in my distributor is definitely not 3/4" - it appears to be 11/16". First attempt to push it out has failed. I was lazy and used some aluminium tubing that just happened to be the right diameter, but of course it buckled and the bush didn't shift. I will need to make a brass drift to the exact size. Don't have a press at present, and too long for the vice, so will have to tap it out.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Dave,

My mistake, the O/D for the 420064 is 0.655" I have checked this on a spare D2A unit I have and it looks right. About getting the old bush out, you could try to tap a thread in it, (you will need a long tap), then using a long bolt and some sort of metal cylinder as a spacer, screw it out. I would try to avoid using a hammer.

John

J Scragg

Dave,

I have found a PDF version of the Lucas parts manual, here is the page showing the bush data.

John

J Scragg

Excellent, many thanks. I agree about not using a hammer. I am putting together various bits of tubing, etc., to assemble a pusher.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Well that was easy. Made up a brass drift and used a screw press to push out the bush. Some static friction, but once that was overcome it moved easily. The bush is marked COMPO H. Pic of the distributor, bush and brass drift attached. You can also see the brass screw used to lock the alloy body to the core, which I loosened in case it was pressing on the brass bush. However looking inside the core, as intended it did not penetrate to the bush
Dave H

Dave Hill

Got the parts Ray and they will do the job nicely - many thanks. I rang MG Octagon Club this morning and they say they have the long distributor bush in stock (not much call for them apparently, as nobody seems to want to take the job on). I'll report back when I've fitted it. They also have the springs.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Why not just modify an MGB distributor and fit it?
R J Marshall

That is what I have now. It works very well, but its not the original distributor. Also because its a nice little project!
Dave H
Dave Hill

I'm with you, Dave. I prefer original parts too, whenever possible. A later model vac advance distributor would technically be an upgrade, but to me they just don't look right. I have one on a 1500 in the garage right now and maybe I'm just weird but it bothers me every time I lift the bonnet!
Steve Simmons

Waiting for the new bush, so in the meantime made a new LT terminal. Unlike later distributors with a plastic moulding this is a 2BA bolt with a square head, a plastic insulating sleeve and assorted washers and two nuts. Had to machine down a larger bolt to get the square head and make the sleeve from black nylon rod. A bit fiddly but this is as far as I've got. Just need to cut the thread.
Dave H

Dave Hill

This thread was discussed between 11/03/2019 and 18/03/2019

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