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MG TD TF 1500 - Roll bar on TD with MGB parts

Probably beaten to death a thousand times but I don't want to put anything on backwards ;).

All MGB components. New urethane A-arm bushings and new urethane bushings in the ends of the links.

Small part of the trapezoidal shaped reinforcement up? I have the parts laid out in the picture as if you are looking at the front of the car, so right is on the left and left is on the right. I think I have the vertical links right as well. Held them up to the current suspension as if I were bolting it on and the top of the links are square to the car's frame.

Thanks.

Stuart


S Grimm

Lookin' good. But the drop links are never easy. I've seen several sway bar installations, and I don't recall two being the same. Not really a problem as the drop links can be cut and welded if necessary.

But try to keep the angle of motion to a minimum. Long, sweeping sway bars, tend to induce stress.

Attaching 2 pix. The long (link) one is of Laverne Downey's TF. He had other issues to deal with, like horns and an oil cooler, hence the quite long link; but I have no doubt that its nonetheless effective. Note that LaVerne has not used the MGB lower A arm, but had improvised one on his own. The AH installation is similar.

The other is of an AH bar and link adapted to a TF and the links are nice and short and will give good response to the sway bar.

My daughter is in the process of installing disk brakes and a sway bar on her Bug Eye, and we're facing similar issues.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.


Gord Clark

Sorry. Got the images mixed-up. LaVern's TF DOES use the MGB lower A arm, whilst the AH installation is adapted.#

Gord C

Gord Clark

Thanks Gord. Hopefully I can get this together soon. Got the rear suspension bushings replaced and now want to work on the front but the Boss has us going to the beach for a week this Saturday.

I did watch the 3 part video series someone made. Doesn't look too difficult or time consuming. The hardest part is getting the location of the sway bar mounts in the right place. Was also thinking of making a doubler plate out of some 1/8" or so steel to put behind the frame where the sway bar mounts go. What do you think?

Stuart
S Grimm

I used a complete 5/8” MGB bar setup on TD-4834. Links were not modified. No interference issues. But install the bar to the links before you drill any holes in the dumbirons. I clamped the bar installed onto the bushings upon the dumbirons and check for any R&P “lock to lock” tie rod interference before drilling holes. Very straight forward installation. The 5/8” bar is more than ample for normal driving and provides good stability. Certainly much better than a set of auxiliary Andrex dampers can provide. With my driving style I think I will eventually experiment with a larger bar as the yaw in hard cornering is still more than I care for.

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

Update and question.

I got the old sway bar bushes out and realized that the bar has a sweep at the bushing ends. Should it be mounted so the ends sweep down towards the ground or up to the sky?

Stuart



S Grimm

If you're talking about putting an MGB anti sway bar on a TD go to Youtube and watch my complete installation done a few years ago wiht LaVerne. We did make a mistake and put a part on wrong side. Don't remember details but video talks about it. It was worth it! Like a new car!!!
efh Haskell

Couple of things...First the videos have an error that I cannot correct. The trapezoid gusset needs to have the long leg mounted on the bottom.

As for your bar?? I haven't run across a B bar that I recall with that much curve on the ends, but If it fits, I would probably mount it with the top just as you show it in the photo....of course after you install some bushings of your choice in the ends.
L E D LaVerne

OK. Just scanned part 3 of the video and it looks like they are sweeping up but the bar looks different than mine. I guess I'll have to see what looks right when I get ready to mount it.

I just got the urethane bushings installed in the ends. Kind of a pain. Ended up putting them in boiling water for about 5 minutes. Softened them up just enough to where I could get them in by pushing them in to get started and then using a pair of slip joint pliers to force them in the rest of the way. Once you get all of the lip started in the hole they just pop in the rest of the way.



S Grimm

FWIW
Gord,
The first set of pictures you published are from my TD.
They are from an Austin Healey and have been on the car about seven or eight years. I did modify the links slightly but they have been performing perfectly ever since.
Mort
Mort Resnicoff

Question for those who have installed a roll-bar:

Is it necessary to reinforce the dumb-irons?

Thanks,

Jim
J Barry

OK. Got almost everything put back together. I understand that you wait until the car is weight on wheels before tightening up the A-arm pivot nuts and the bottom link bolts.

A-arm nuts just tighten till they take up the slack and then turn till the hole in the pivot pin lines up with the next slot in the castle nut and pin. But what about the bottom link bolt? Is there a specific torque? The workshop manual just says to tighten but I have a feeling there is a point where it would be too tight. Be advised that I do not have the original style link bolts with the castle nut and cotter pin. Mine are 1/2-20 bolts with (new) self locking nuts.

Only a few bits left and a driveshaft balance to go! Can't wait to see how she handles with the sway bar and all the new bushings in the rear leaf springs (old ones totally worn through).

Stuart
S Grimm

Yes its advisable to reinforce the dumb irons to prevent cracks from the mounting holes. I made dual purpose backing plates and revised mountings for the twin horns.
Dave H
Dave Hill

I did not reinforce anything. 30,00 miles later still going strong.
Mort
Mort Resnicoff

I feel guilty about not reinforcing my bottom arms or dumb irons, but they seem to be holding up. The original links were only 5/16" but I changed them to 1/2" after a couple broke.

They weren't fitted for any technical reason, but just to keep the inner rear wheel on the ground while cornering. An unexpected bonus is that passengers really appreciate the roll reduction in normal driving.

David

D A Provan

I used MGB parts on my TD and cut the vertical link short. I also used a bit of steel plate to reinforce the dumb irons and used grade 8 bolts in the pans.
Per LeVerns suggestion, I also used longer screws to secure the location clips on the Sway Bar and they are stainless.

Rod Jones

This thread was discussed between 06/06/2019 and 16/07/2019

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