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MG TD TF 1500 - Running board questions

Chris Cooper lists the fasteners for the tread strips on the running board as rivets. There is a picture in his "Oraginal TD" page that appears to verify this.

Has anyone found a suitable flat top rivet for this?

Also, does anyone have a picture of how the end of the rubber was cut and fitted in the tread strip?
Bruce Cunha

When I did mine I could not find an exact replacement.

This reply will need at least 4 pictures so two or more posts. Also I have about 50 of what I used and you are welcome to them.

My got0o source is usually McMasters. I found the shortest rivets of the correct diameter were too long, about 3/8 in. Also they had a larger head than the originals.

Figure 1 is an original rivet in the old runner.

Figire 2 is one of the McMaster rivets, in the Lathe as I turn down the head.

I tested 3 lengths of the body, one was 1/8 under the head and then 5/32 under the head finally 3/16 under the head.

I am going to the next post.

Jim B.






JA Benjamin

This was done over 6 years ago so I might be a bit fuzzy.

Image 1 is a 5/32 showing the Inside head. I believe I have also trimmed the head to 5/132
Image 2 is a 5/32 rivet showing it fastened to the inside.

Jim B.




JA Benjamin

I cut the rivets to length in the lathe, holding them in a collet and parting them to length.

Now If you dont have the capability to do this, with the quarantine I could make a set for you.

I would need to resurrect exactly what I did.


On the rubbers, I trimmed them to size using a drum sander on the Drill Press.

Jim B.




JA Benjamin

Thanks Jim Those are very helpful. I do have a lathe and collets that will work for this.

Let me do some searching and if I can't find any that fit better, I will touch base with you to buy some you have and modify them.

Bruce Cunha

It's on the Nitty page

3/16 X 5/16 100' C'SUNK HEAD 1100F ALUMINUM RIVETS from www.rivetsinstock.com
Christopher Couper

The rubbers were rounded and beveled at the ends. I have an original in the attic I'll try to find and snap a picture and post. I tried rivets years ago without success. Problem was they would overtighten and bend the aluminum strip down. I guess you could do it with a drill press or something. George
George Butz III

Yea, I will have to try them on some old tread holders I have. I do have an old foot-operated brake rivet machine that should work for these.

Interesting in that when I checked with Doug at FTFU, he said they use the press in threaders and use a flat head machine screw. He pointed out that you have to be very careful doing rivets over the fresh paint.
Bruce Cunha

The rivets I listed are very soft. A slight tap is all that is needed.

Just invert the running board and place a solid, flat mandrel that is in a vice just under the rivet head. Then a light tap or two with a hammer and you are good to go.

It may chip the paint a tiny bit in some cases but I think much better than nuts and screws.

Sorry for the blurry image. IIRC that originals might have been a bit longer (~1/16" longer?), ie having more exposed) but this is good enough IMHO.



Christopher Couper

Original rivets underside, and top. Note how thin and likely countersunk the top one is.




George Butz III

Cross section (sorry a bit blurry), end detail. Note the original likely Woodland Green paint. Bruce, sorry it took me so long to get to these. George




George Butz III

"The rubbers were rounded and beveled at the ends". I found much to my chagrin that original rubbers and new strips are a poor fit and vice versa. They are not interchangeable, as I discovered after spending a considerable amount of time polishing up my original aluminium strips and then trying to fit the new rubbers from the States. I ended up having to use the original rubbers after reviving them with glycerine. Caveat emptor. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

The available strip sets from Moss and Abingdon have always been the aluminum and rubber parts as a matched set. I don't recall just the rubbers being available, dating back to the late 70s. The original ones used to be a bit wider than the replacements as well, not sure what the current ones are like. George
George Butz III

Great information folks. Chris. I got the rivets on order.

George. That paint is what my car came with and will be repainting it to.

What are the thoughts on what the original aluminum finish was? Raw or polished? I cleaned mine up on a buffing wheel, but figure if they were more of a raw aluminum color, I won't clear coat them and they will return to a raw aluminum look.
Bruce Cunha

Bruce: I think it was a raw, satin finish, but I really like to polish them. Looks so much nicer.
Christopher Couper

This thread was discussed between 05/04/2020 and 22/04/2020

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