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MG TD TF 1500 - SJC 1951 MG TD Restoration
I'm starting this thread to give updates and ask questions. Well, here's issue #1. While taking off the front fenders, I noticed this. It appears the passenger side front frame has been welded or repaired. The weld or repair doesn’t look that good, to me at least, but what do I know. A fender bolt should be in that area but isn't because of this. Is this ok as long as it was repaired properly? Should I check frame alignment? It seems ok when driven. Any feedback would be great. Steve ![]() |
SJC |
Picture of "good" frame front fender drivers side
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SJC |
Abingdon Spares had several frames they were parting out. Kay be worth a call to see if oh up I could buy that section and weld it in to your frame. David |
D. Sander |
David, I would just replace the whole frame, if available, rather than cutting and replacing a section. Sounds like you would be back where you started with perhaps some better welds. ( I'll bet it costs less to swap the frame_) Otherwise have the frame realigned and live with it. Don H |
Don Harmer |
From you picture it is pretty difficult to see if it is a good or bad weld. How about cleaning it up and then sending a picture. Is that a reinforcement plate that has been welded in? I would be inclined to use the chassis as is provided there are no cracks or holes in the weld. Hugh |
H.D. Pite |
I will send a picture soon. Thanks for the feedback everyone. |
SJC |
Another question, should I take the scuttle top off or pull the whole tub off as in the picture below? I want to strip and paint but am not able to remove the scuttle top, or the body part directly above the dash. More later. Steve ![]() |
SJC |
Given the time and money being spent on the project as a whole, I'd get a new (used) frame section and have it pieced in professionally. This is a pretty simple job for someone who does this all day long. On the way home, have it powder coated. I HATE that nagging feeling that I should have done it better but didn't..... ...... |
MAndrus |
Steve, you ask what to remove. You are planning to restore the car, so there's really only one answer: take everything off and apart. As MAndrus says, there's no worse feeling than knowing - or finding out from rust holes or dribbles - that something should have been removed and properly restored. Same applies to the mechanicals. You don't want to put the car proudly on the road and then find there's no brakes or oil pressure. I don't know why you can't remove the scuttle top, but it should be easier with the tub off. If not, someone on this board will be able to provide advice. Good luck, David |
David Provan |
Steve, you ask what to remove. You are planning to restore the car, so there's really only one answer: take everything off. As MAndrus says, there's no worse feeling than knowing - or finding out from rust holes or dribbles - that something should have been removed and properly restored. Same applies to the mechanicals. You don't want to put the car proudly on the road and then find there's no brakes or oil pressure. I don't know why you can't remove the scuttle top, but it should be easier with the tub off. If not, someone on this board will be able to provide advice. Good luck, David |
David Provan |
Ok. I just get really nervous around the "real" car parts, brake lines, transmission, etc. I'm pretty good though at unscrewing nuts and bolts! :-) |
SJC |
SJC,it would appear that you aren't aware of the fact that the cowl (scuttle) is soldered to the front rocker panels. I'd suggest getting a copy of something like Horst Schach's Restoration Manual before you go much father. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
To remove the scuttle you first have to remove the windshield mounting posts, and the top wood piece that the hood (bonnet) rests on. Under the wood piece are nails about every inch. These nails need to be removed, then the soldered joint at the back side where the scuttle meets the quarter panels just above the doors and near the dash board needs to be cut with a hacksaw. This seam will need to be mig welded back together after the wood replacement. IT IS CRITICAL THAT THE WOOD REPLACEMENT, DOOR FITMENT AND REASSEMBLY BE CARRIED OUT ON THE FRAME. IT IS ALSO CRITICALLY IMPORTANT FOR THE CAR TO BE ASSEMBLED, WITH THE FENDERS, DOORS, HOOD AND GAS TANK BEFORE ANY FINAL PAINTING IS DONE. Once all the body work had been competed, gaps adjusted and everything fits the car can be disassembled again and painted. The TD restoration manual sold by The. New England MG T Register is a valuable resource. -David |
D. Sander |
I would not take the tub apart at all unless there is bad wood or sheet metal that needs to be replaced. If it ain't broke don't fix it............. |
J K Barter |
Good to know JK...cause that's my tub in the picture Whats up with that? ![]() |
MG LaVerne |
SJC I was a bit confused with the pic of the tub, as it it clearly belongs to a TF. Now that LaVerne has claimed ownership it makes sense. (The flat top of the inner rear guards is the giveaway.) On the chassis rail weld I'd rotary wire brush it & if the weld looks good a bit of body filler will disguise it nicely. Sand, paint it satin black & then forget about it. Easy enough to tap the missing fender thread. Maybe strip the scuttle around the windscreen pillar area (cause if there's any rust & bog, that's where it'll be) & if it looks OK I'd leave it alone. I'm with JK. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
:-)
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MG LaVerne |
Great info guys. I am aware a few things but not others, obviously. Here's where I'm at this morning. Next a few pictures...
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SJC |
Paneling used for interior panels?! I doubt that's right. If so, they get an "A" for ingenuity
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SJC |
A "frozen nightmare"
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SJC |
La Verne, I was using your tub (found on the internet) as an example for my question. |
SJC |
You already score big for the rug under the car :-)
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MG LaVerne |
Lots going on over here. Lots of pictures too. Here's a Captain Obvious question: In this picture, I'm assuming there should be two bolts at bottom of gearbox, right? I ask because both are missing. Steve ![]() |
SJC |
exhaust bracket mounting. 2 bolts. |
mog |
Thanks |
SJC |
This thread was discussed between 16/03/2015 and 28/03/2015
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