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MG TD TF 1500 - Source improved impeller water pump

Does anybody knows a source in Europe for the improved impeller for the water pump?
I want to fit one on my XPEG engine which is just rebuild for my TF.
John van den Boorn

Butch Taras in the States. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Try Rich Hardy at Vintage MG Parts http://www.vintagemgparts.com/
You'll have to ask as he supplies the full pumps for Triple-M cars. However, since he makes the pumps, he might be able to accommodate.
Lew Palmer

This is what you need

http://www.racemettleltd.co.uk/pump.html

I have one on my TD and it works well.
Ian Bowers

Interesting Racemettle pumps. Very skeptical about an aluminum impellor however. Does anyone remember the aluminum thermostat housings that would turn in to a corroded pitted mess in a few years? Same with 280Z aluminum cylinder heads... George
George Butz

We had an 1981 Cad. Elderado, bought it new, it had an aluminum water pump, I think, a 4100 engine, among other things and GM required owners to put pellets in the cooling system to ward off the effects of the aluminum disintegrating under normal operating conditions. Crazy, but they seem to have worked. PJ
PSJ Jennings

If the impeller is electrically isolated from the housing, then there is no risk of erosion from bi-metallic electrolysis. Tis is well taken care of in the design by the use of washers and collars.
Ian Bowers

Aluminum in a cooling system will disintegrate over time regardless. This was on my engine. PJ


PSJ Jennings

Aluminium is well protected from corrosion by a thick and repairable oxide layer. Using a 'normal' anti-freeze enhances this oxide layer. Damage to aluminium is the result of electrochemical erosion, which requires the aluminium to be directly in contact with a different metal so that a current can flow. If the aluminium part is insulated then corrosion and erosion will be prevented.

In systems mentioned earlier with aluminium cylinder heads and thermostat housings, there is direct electrical contact through the bolts between the two metals. Why not contact racemettle and ask how they prevent erosion rather than using irrelevant examples, just look at the bolts in the last image.
Ian Bowers

Well, I will say when this pic was taken, this car came out of a building where it sat for over 20 years, enough time for the electrical termites to do their job. Grin. PJ

Slightly different now.


PSJ Jennings

Butch Taras can help me
John van den Boorn



Quote:
" Lower Ph (acidic) is more conductive of electricity, and allows for more galvanic corrosion. "

From Wikipedia;

"In chemistry, pH (/piːˈeɪtʃ/) (potential of hydrogen) is a numeric scale used to specify the acidity or basicity of an aqueous solution. It is approximately the negative of the base 10 logarithm of the molar concentration, measured in units of moles per liter, of hydrogen ions. More precisely it is the negative of the logarithm to base 10 of the activity of the hydrogen ion.[1] Solutions with a pH less than 7 are acidic and solutions with a pH greater than 7 are basic."

Thus any solution less than 7 OR greater than 7 will conduct electricity.

The further away from 7 the pH is the more conductive the solution is.


Jim B.
JA Benjamin

It is not the pH which controls the conductivity, if the there are dissolved salts, water will conduct. Common salt solution is pH7 but conducts very well.

The point over which I have laboured and is still not comprehended by the non-Chemists/Material Scientists, is that the conductivity (or pH) of the coolant is irrelevant for corrosion to occur; a complete electrical circuit must be present. If the aluminium impeller is electrically isolated from the other metallic materials in the engine by the use of non-conducting washers or sealing materials, then the circuit is broken and no electrochemical corrosion will occur.

If a bolt is run through and in contact with the aluminium part, the aluminium part will corrode, and quickly.
Ian Bowers

This thread was discussed between 05/04/2017 and 17/04/2017

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