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MG TD TF 1500 - TD Floorboard fasteners (& new member)

I bought a 52 TD 10 years ago, drove it a bit, and stored for later R&R. Last Tuesday the R&R began. Attached is a photo of the fasteners that secured the floorboards to the frame/chassis. They are flat head 1/4x1.25" BSF. I'd like to replace them with "original spec" screws, and find that in some photos and suppliers brochures the screws are pan head or cheese head. Can anyone tell me what the original floorboard screws were or provide a link to a parts list that identifies them (my parts manual - AKD 834 doesn't list them).

Thanks, Walt



wlswift

Try From The Frame Up Doug Pelton
www.fromtheframeup.com
M Grogan

Hi Walt -

I made a diagram, photos, and sources of floorboard fasteners plus I have listed the order in which to install them. I posted the info in a previous thread.

> To find the thread, enter this phrase in the archive search box.
Floorboard/prop shaft supports

> Then click the button for
"this phrase"

> and the button for
"Search in thread title only"

Read the third and fourth post by me in the thread.

As noted in the fourth post, the correct link to the Google Drive document is
http://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxisXBEpc-IWa25XaHc4akNPd28/view?usp=sharing

I don't know of sources for the Tee-Nuts that go into the floorboards. Perhaps Doug Pelton at From the Frame Up can help.
http://fromtheframeup.com/
480-588-8185

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Abingdon Spares and Moss sell a complete package of correct flat-head slotted floor board screws and cupped washers. Getting the old, rusty ones out is the hardest. No cheese-head or pan-heads.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Many of my original screws were froze in place. I might suggest that you snap flat jawed vise grips tightly on the captured nuts where you can to prevent both the nut from turning and distorting the capturing sheetmetal. Use plenty of penetrating oil. If the screw head is gone then rip the plywood out of the way and use a vise grip on the screw head. Work it back and forth as you slowly try to extract the screws. Ones that did snap off.. I was able to save the nuts by drilling out progressively with drill bits and finally clean the threads with a BSF tap. When you re assemble apply Never-seize to the threads to facilitate future removal.

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W. A. Chasser

Thanks to all who responded. Useful info. One remaining niggle - I tried to source some Finnish/baltic birch 3/8 plywood in greater than 60" length.

No can do (at least not here in NH/VT area).

Maple is available in 3/8" 4x8', or I can get birch at 1/2".

Any comments on the problem with using a 1/2" thick piece of baltic birch or a 3/8" maple? I don't know enough to make a selection.

Walt
wlswift

You need 3/8" marine plywood.

Call a boat yard or wholesale plywood distributor for 3/8" marine plywood. No voids. Very few, if any, patches. Smooth and flat. Made with waterproof glue between laminations.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Walt check out the 'Original TD Midget' site. That will answer most of the questions you are likely to have. The archive here is also useful although it can be difficult to find definitive answers. Welcome & good luck with the restoration. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

This thread was discussed on 26/09/2016

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