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MG TD TF 1500 - TD Seat squabs

I am making new seat squabs (the bits that you sit on) for our TD. I have the plans for the base plate but no drawing showing the side view. There are 2 triangular plates which are covered with plywood but these plates are curved to fit ones bottom. Does anyone have a drawing of this? Alternatively if you have a squab with all the upholstery removed would it be possible to photograph it? I would be eternally grateful.
Thanks
Bob Marshall


R J Marshall

Bob, hope this helps. They are now covered so I can not take any measurements. I replaced the thin plywood with 1/4-inch plywood (steamed) and used wicking epoxy to seal them.

WHTroyer

Second Image:

WHTroyer

Third Image:

Instead of the three round holes that cause cracking in the plywood, I drilled holes in the lower (triangular), thick frame.

WHTroyer

Next Image:

I replaced the old latex foam with 100% natural latex foam (last about 5 times longer than the Moss foam and feels like the original seat).

WHTroyer

Last Image:

Sealed the latex in upholstery cloth and added batting. However, I did make a pattern for the side triangular pieces and can send you a drawing.

WHTroyer

Image of bolster sides. Interestingly, the 1951 original bolsters had very slightly different dimensions from right to left seat. The concave section is I guess butt shaped (can trace locally as needed :-) ).

WHTroyer

Mr Troyer - thank you these images are very helpful particularly the one showing the side bolster. My problem is getting the correct curve on the side bolsters.
Bob Marshall
R J Marshall

Bob,
Here is my drawing of the seat base. This may be of help to you. I don't have any info on the curvature of the plywood. I used 3 layers of 1.5mm aircraft grade birch plywood laminated with diluted PVA glue.
If anybody wants the drawing in a higher resolution let me know.

Regards
Declan

Declan Burns

Here' a photo of the original as I took it apart.
If someone can trace the dimensions left and right I can supplement the drawing for construction use.

Regards
Declan


Declan Burns

About to redo interior do you have reference or a source for the "natural latex" foam
Jon Levine

You can get the foam cut to your dimension and Dick is very helpful (Dick Coffey). 100% Natural Latex is better than a hybrid blend of natural and synthetic. Many suppliers sell the synthetic and/or hybrid Latex.

KTT Enterprises
15 Marne Street (Rear)
Hamden, Connecticut 06514

Tel: 203.288.7883
Fax: 203.288.8404
Email: info@kttenterprises.com
Website: www.kttenterprises.com
WHTroyer

Doubt Bob is still interested since he never responded, but wanted to mention the plywood cover for the bolster frame is easy to build or replace.

I used 6mm Okoume plywood (used for boat building and good for bending) because it has water proof/boil proof glue and is easy to steam. 4mm Okoume plywood is more than sufficient when using four bolster "side" pieces as shown in the pictures.

Soaked the plywood in hot water for 2 hours and then used a cheap ($18) clothing steamer when making the bends. This is easy using two pieces of wood and four clamps.

Clamp the front of the plywood tightly and then slowly tighten the clamps for the second piece of wood at the middle of the concave section while adding heat with the steamer. Took about 2 minutes to tighten the second clamps. Let dry for 24 hours and add screws as needed before removing the clamps.

When fully dried and screwed in place, I sealed the wood with wicking epoxy to further stabilize the wood fibers.


WHTroyer

Most of the original bolsters I have seen have stress cracks around the 3 holes. So, I put the holes in the front and sides of the bolster frame instead and sealed it with epoxy. Might help the grand kids some day.

WHTroyer

Thanks for the source for the foam, any possibility that you have the dimensions you ordered available, my seats were replaced with who knows years ago, I now have a a moss interior replacement set, the dimensions would help, again thanks
Jon Levine

Jon, that depends on how your new seat covers are sewn.

A general rule of thumb is the foam cushion should be (i) 1/2-inch larger than your cover dimensions if no batting will be used and (ii) the same size as your cover if batting is used.

I fit the foam to the cushion and added batting. However, the Moss seat cover I used did not really fit the seat base that I purchased from a smaller (very well known) company.

I recommend that you make a pattern for the seat base as well as one for the new seat cover (pattern cut to fit the outer stitch cover seams. Many upholstery shops will actually fit the foam to your covers for a small fee.

Our seat base had to be trimmed to fit the Moss cover. Interestingly, the amount that needed to be trimmed from the seat base to fit the cover was the same as some of the seat base drawings posted on the forum. Our new seat base was too large. So, make both patterns and verify the size you need. I am sure Dick can offer recommendations if you purchase from him.


WHTroyer

The solid blue line is the dimension of published seat base diagrams and the dashed blue line is from the Moss seat cover. Both were in good agreement.

WHTroyer

This thread was discussed between 13/12/2017 and 15/12/2017

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