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MG TD TF 1500 - TF Bonnet fit with Cowl Seal Question

When fitting the front fender (wing) onto my '54 TF I found that it's making contact with the round part of the rubber cowl seal. Am I to tighten the bolts to the point that it compresses the rubber or am I to cut a relief in the rubber so the fender sits flat without any forcing? I'm about 90% I should cut the round area of the seal where the fender contacts it and not squeeze it with force. Am I correct?
L Staller

So, what should I do? Cut or squeeze the round part of the rubber cowl seal? Please give me your opinion or share a tid bit of your wisdom.
Thank you, Lou
L Staller

Lou,
I think there has been a thread on this topic before. From memory the consensus was that the rubber was not relieved but that it may be worthwhile sanding it away somewhat. The old rubber on my car looked as though it had not been trimmed.

Max Irvine

Squeeze. The rubber was one piece.
Christopher Couper

Nope, as Chris says, not trimmed, just squeeze it between the fender and tub. PJ
Paul S Jennings

If you have the repo V notch rubber, as sold by Moss and some others, it's harder to squeeze than the original type. B&G sells the original type and is what I put on my car. You might know the difference, but if not, here's the difference. PJ



Paul S Jennings

Thanks for your input. I'll be leaving the rubber seal as is and not cut a relief. As I'm bolting the pieces together for the final assembly I don't want to handle the newly painted body panel more then I have to. Right now the front and rear fenders are loosely bolted in place and once I satisfied with their alignment I'll cinch everything in place. Of course after I fit new welting between the fenders and running boards, which I still have to size the front fender pieces and paint all 6 pieces with a SEM paint.
Thanks again for your assistance. Lou
L Staller

PJ, I see what you mean by the Moss supplied seal is harder to squeeze then another vendors. I have all 4 fenders bolted in place although loosely so I can continue to fit the welting. The area where the fender contacts the seal is causing the fender to be approx 1/8" from the body tub. I'm hoping that once I firmly tighten the bolts it will suck the fender inwards and close the gap. I'll find out once I finish the welting on the forward area of the rear fenders. I'm making up a pre formed curve out of alum rod to put into the welting. Then the welting gets painted and when dry put into place and the fenders tightly bolted down.
Fun times!
Lou
L Staller

I forgot to mention that the original type rubber, as B&G sells, is thinner in the flat area. Never measured it, but it's thinner and seemed to be slightly more flexible. I have the Moss rubber also that came in the TF rubber kit but chose not to use it. PJ
Paul S Jennings

This thread was discussed between 08/04/2015 and 11/04/2015

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