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MG TD TF 1500 - TF Bonnet Gap Recommendation

Is there a recommended gap specification for the TF bonnet? I'm referring to the gap between the top of the bonnet and the bonnet side panel. At present the bonnet latches are not in place so I can actually get the panel tight with a very small gap but I'm concerned about the fit after the latches are installed and the possibility of paint chipping with such a tight gap. Of course the tight gap looks great but might lead to possible paint chips.
Would you say 1/16" is to tight? A 1/4" seems too big, to me. I like the look of 1/8" or am I looking for trouble? Thanks.
L Staller

The latches are easy to adjust after all is installed. The bonnet should set on the latch springs, not on the side panels. I set mine to conform to the position of how the bonnet sets on the grill rubber, which on my car is about 1 16th of an inch above the side panel. Bonnets tight on front and back rubbers and does not touch the side panels at all. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Hi Paul, Thanks for your quick response! So the bonnet gap on your car is about 1/16", keeping the bonnet top off of the side panels. I understand the 2 panels should not touch that's why I'm trying to determine how tight I can get the gap without causing problems when I eventually drive the car. Too tight of a gap could cause chipping which is why I'm being cautious and not wanting it to tight. Or, are TF's tight, meaning there's not a lot or any chassis flex? I've owned and driven Ford Model T's that when pulling up a driveway on an angle the door would fly open because of the extreme chassis/body flex.
When restoring the TF's chassis I commented how stout it was built so maybe there is little or no flex at all. Maybe I'm being overly cautious??
L Staller

Most of the pictures I have of unrestored cars seems to show about 1/8" or maybe even 3/16".

Any clue to consider is lining up the side panels with the seam on the body and then seeing where the hood top rests. Obviously the cowl rubber needs to be in place too. This seems to be the "natural" spacing but this probably depends a lot each car.
Christopher Couper

Hi
I just went out and measured my gap. It is 1/4 inch. I don't see how I could make it any tighter.

Tom
'54 TF
T Norby

My car was apart for a repaint and cowl wood replacement. I've already installed new cowl rubber and thin rubber on the grille shell. With help from a buddy we slid the re-plated bonnet center strip onto the top panels then mounted the assembly onto the car which sits/fits quite well. I then aligned the bonnet side panels up or down to open or close the gap. So far I completed the left side and I was able to get the gap to approx 1/8". I have the latches mounted to the side panels but not the catches on the top panels and expect no problems once they're mounted and adjusted. Actually I expect I'll be able to close the gap further when the latches are completely installed and properly adjusted. But for now I'm quite pleased with how it's coming out. Thanks...
L Staller

I remember reading about this issue a wee while ago. I recall that the top of the bonnet side should be level with the seam between the scuttle and front quarter panel. This can be adjusted either by moving the brackets or with the use of spacer washers. Isn't the position of the top flaps fixed by the thickness of the rubber strips on the scuttle and radiator? When my bonnet is lowered it rests on the catches and then with hand pressure it clicks shut. It just nips the rubbers with about 3/16"gap. I need to press over each catch in turn.


Jan T
J Targosz

I used the rubbers, front and rear, from B&G and found they are thinner than what some others are selling and the rear cowl rubber has a 90 degree lip and lays down better than the V lip type others sell. This caused my bonnet to set slightly lower than the old ones I took off. My side panels are new and I positioned them to match the original panels locations. As said, I have 1/16th clearance on both sides. I also lay the bonnet on the latches and push and snap them closed. Took quite a while to get them adjusted properly.
Excuse the polishing compound, car needs a good bath. But it does gave a reference to the gap. PJ


Paul S Jennings

The way you describe your bonnet closure process is exactly how I expect mine will work once the latches are fully installed and adjusted. Therefore the gap will close even further once the latches are snapped down into place. Attached is a photo of the gap with the bonnet top panels just laying in place, without being snapped into place. So far i'm happy with the way it's fitting. Thanks for all your input!

L Staller

Here is what 1/4 inch looks like.
I suppose, to tighten up, I could disassemble the front of the car and ship up the engine side panels an 1/8 in.
But....don't think I will do that. This gap looks OK.

Tom
'54 TF

T Norby

Tom, I agree that the gap on your car looks fine. As long as the gap is as equal/even as possible from the front to the back it'll look fine. My car is in pieces so now is the time to get it as close as I can. Actually as close as I'm comfortable with.
Lou
L Staller

This thread was discussed between 08/05/2015 and 10/05/2015

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