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MG TD TF 1500 - TF Oil Drip Pan

Have seen lots of posts about this, but no real solution.

Does anybody sell a version for the 1500 with the ribbed sump?

Thanks.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

I just did a search of the archives, and came up with a few hits, ideas, and instructions, but havent found any one who is producing them for sale.
I think Buds T TALK site has a few also

Steve
Steve Wincze

Just did a google image search fot MG OIL DRIP TRAY and found quite a few,, even with ribbed sumps.

Steve
Steve Wincze

Joe McGinnis, email him directly at:
callent.beefalo@hotmail.com

or call him at 864-980-1616

Joe sold a kit that allows use with the ribbed oil pan. Works on my TF
Rick

Here's the one that I have. They were made by the late David Pelham. I think John James from Totally T-Type can still supply them. They fit the ribbed sump. I added the level gauge and the drain tap and a course sponge as a baffle.
Regards

Declan Burns

A better pic

Declan Burns

Brilliant! Do they make a bigger one that goes under the entire engine?
Dave Hill

I second Dave H! George
George Butz

One of our Mich Chapter members, who had a prize winning MK2 maroon TD at Louisville makes and sells an excellent drip catcher. John Gervasi can be reached at jagervasi@yahoo.com
Lou Van Koningsveld

I have a(maybe a dumb) question. What is the difference between an oil catch pan for a ribbed and non-ribbed oil pan? Are they wider, longer? I have a catch pan on my 1500 TF and while it catches some oil I still show a lot of oil on the ground when I shut off the engine.
Mark Stolzenburg
Chesterfield, Missouri
TF 8263
Mark Stolzenburg

A couple of months ago I was able to limp down to a local car show in the TF. A "I used to have one of those" spectators noticed my oil drip. He said he "cured" his by removing the split pin and replacing this with a bolt. He removed this every week to let the oil drain from the bell housing into a jam jar! He swore he never had clutch slip.

Jan T
J Targosz

If you are handy with tools:

First solution is,remove the fins on the back sump face, a 4 inch angle grinder with a 1mm thick cut off wheel is the weapon of choice. Take caution you only want to remove the fins, not puncture the sump.

Second part of the process, obtain a pair of tin snips, sheet of 26# steel,a 1/2 inch BSP plug and socket. stick of silver solder and a gas torch. Take the time to research what is displayed on the web and measure up what is required under the car to fit the catcher. Make a pattern out of cardboard if you are not confident to commence using the steel sheet. The task is fabricate a rectangular prism with an open top and one wide side that will facilitate being used to attach the catcher using the 3 bottom bell housing bolts. The BSP socket is soldered into the base of the prism to drain the catcher when the plug is removed.

An enhancement on the designs I have seen displayed is to fit 2 inch long side wings on the catcher that wrap around the bell housing. This reduces the effect of wind at speed displacing oil in the catcher.
G Evans

Is it necessary to remove all the ribs? I have made a catcher tank but have only relieved the middle rib. I have bent the centre of the rear top of the tank with a pair of pliers so it just clears the split pin. I have also straighted the pin so oil will drip from this directly into the tank.

Jan T
J Targosz

Has anyone devised a drip pan or catcher for a FRONT crank seal leak? Of course, besides the obvious fix of replacing the seal.

Tom
'54 TF
T Norby

This thread was discussed between 17/08/2016 and 21/08/2016

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