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MG TD TF 1500 - Tightening wire wheel knock-offs

I recall seeing several past threads on tightening the knock-offs on wire wheels...but I can't locate any this time. I'll be using a lead/rawhide mallet, but the question is...final tightening with the wheels off the ground or on the ground? My inclination is to have some vehicle weight on the wheels, but I recall seeing where it was recommended to do it when the wheels are suspended. Seems counter-intuitive to be hammering away on the knock-offs while off the ground and transmitting those impact forces to other suspension components. Can anyone advise the recommended method and why that is? I'm done with the disc brake conversion and plan to do the final knock-off/wheel tightening tomorrow, so the TF is still up on jacks for now.

Thanks,

Jim
Jim Rice

Jim
You don't have to whack them all that hard, The spinners are self tightening--as you will notice when you go to take them off next.--they will be much tighter than the amount you tighten them putting them on. The usual mistake by owners is to whack them up overtight like they were when they were removed--
Normally you would hand tighten the spinner with the wheel off the ground and give it an initial little whack, then lower the car until the wheel just touches the ground but not fully loaded then give it two whacks. There's no need to go nuts (pun intended) as the spinners will self tighten, done- they will then set their own tightness by driving the car and you don't have to go far, just a lap round the block and it's all done-
A little history-
Half way through MGB production the spinners and hubs went to a courser thread when it was found that with the fine thread of the earlier cars it was thought that the wheels were overtightening themselves and becoming very difficult to undo after extended periods of roadwork--the courser thread of the later setup resolved this issue-
willy
William Revit

Off the ground is best and you don't need to get carried away with beating them to death. They do need to be wacked good and tight. Only use a lead hammer or rubber mallet. When these cars were originally made the knock offs were made of steel so you could get away with using the copper/rawhide hammers on the knock offs and not damage them for the most part. At some point the knocks offs all became manufactured with brass. The copper/rawhide hammers will damage the ears on the brass knock offs. The lead hammers will not. The damage to the ears won't affect the integrity of the knock off...it just the appearance that will suffer.
L E D LaVerne

The knockoffs need to be tight, but not too tight. If tightened too much, you will damaged the wheel hub and the wheel will be ruined. Put a light coating of grease on the splines, the knockoff threads, and on the outer section of the wheel (on the paint / chrome) where the knockoff covers it up when tight. Also a little on the matching surface inside the knockoff. You don't want to gob a bunch of grease on the large inner taper of the wheel hub or splined hub. This should be dry, or close to it. I like to put a little light oil there, or apply a bit of grease and then wipe it off, to prevent corrosion and fretting. But that's a personal choice on my part.

With the car OFF the ground, install the knockoff and hammer with moderate blows of a lead hammer until the ear of the knockoff only moves about 1/4" or a little less with each blow. That's tight enough. Then lower the car and give another whack or two to make sure it doesn't move further. With new wheels and/or knockoffs, it's a good idea to check them again after the first drive. You can do this on the ground, no need to raise the car again. If you find that the knockoff is looser than before, do not drive the car again until you find out why.
Steve Simmons

Thanks guys. Aside from a few pointers on lube locations, I've pretty much done the tightening process as you all described. Always good to pose any questions on the forum where the collective wisdom is invaluable!

Jim
Jim Rice

Jim,
I was at a car show last year and met a fellow who is making these fantastic knock off spinner tools. You will never have to use a hammer again. The leverage they provide will enable you to tighten your spinners with complete security. He does a great job of making these handmade tools. The leverage you get with that long handle is more than adequate to tighten and loosen the followers as needed.
I have found no problem tightening my followers with the tires on the ground.
It fits neatly behind the seats in the space between the deck and the seat back.
I don't do this often but I do recommend this tool.
I have no connection with his fellow other than being a satisfied customer.
Check with him on his current pricing.
Mort


Mort Resnicoff

Interesting idea, but I'm always weary of the "no damage" claims. I've used other tools that said the same thing yet left dents in the chrome. If anyone tries one of these, please report back after a few uses. The contact point looks really small. I wonder why he didn't make it larger to spread out the load, like a lead hammer would.
Steve Simmons

I have used it several times and found no damage to my chrome followers.
Mort Resnicoff

I bought one of the universal long wrenches from Moss for my MGB as I found the copper/rawhide was marking up the eras. The wrench was no better as it also marks up the ears. I have become a big believer in the lead hammers
L E D LaVerne

Same here, years ago I tried one of those long metal ones and the first time I used it, there was a dent in the chrome. Never again. Tried the wood tool next and it was awkward to use, and split after a few uses. That's when I started to sens a theme.
Steve Simmons

Say what you will about other products but if you do not give yourself a chance to try this one you are missing out on an excellent tool that will do no damage.
Mort Resnicoff

Might be a quality product, but I've used a pure lead hammer for years and never encountered any chrome damage, no marks of any kind. I'll stick with my lead hammer I bought years ago from Hendrix. Curiosity is also, where do you store that long handle wrench in the car? PJ
PJ Jennings

Well, I did find an effective use for the big wheel knockoff spanner. Files a chunk in the end of the handle and drilled another hole. Now I can attach it to the rear axle pinion and lock the differential.
Good for when working on the rear wheels or half shafts.
I have taken to using the big Lead Hammer for the lugs as this spanner did markup the chrome.
Tom's Spanner looks like a much better constructed device and possibly works much better than the one I purchased from Moss.
Rod

Rod Jones

Paul,
It fits right behind the seat in the crevice between the seat back and the back deck.
Mort
Mort Resnicoff

This thread was discussed between 29/05/2022 and 11/06/2022

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