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MG TD TF 1500 - Trans gear movement

Just wondering if the end play in shown in the You Tube is something I need to address. The shifter fork will be replaced.

Thanks.

http://youtu.be/T7f6pts_zz4

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MAndrus

the gear should move back and forwards on the hub, its how it is selected into 1st:

it depends for location on the shaft hub via indent balls both in the gear/hub and in the selectors, the internal splines of the hub/gear as well as teeth on the gear are to be checked for wear.
when sliding hub gears are removed, mark front of the faces of the gear, even if identical to your eye ( front and back ) they will give problems if assembled back to front after years of use.
mog

That explains the excessive wear on the fork, as the fork seems to be the only way the gear stays in proper position while in 3rd and 4th.

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MAndrus

Whoa.

The 1/2 fork is available for $366.00. I may have a look at dressing up the faces.

How much space do you think I can get away with - fork to the gear/syncro ring?

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MAndrus

1st you mean, its at the rear of the box. 1st motion gear selector is 3rd/4th
mog

Changing all the bearings. The nut on the first motion shaft... before I start in on it, is it reverse thread? Any others?
MAndrus

Yes, the First motion shaft bearing nut (No. 56 in WSM page F.4) has left hand thread. Bud
Bud Krueger

MAndrus -

You and I are at about the same stage of the rebuild of our gearboxes. Mine is totally apart. This is my first attempt at this, so I'll be following the answers to your question closely.

I will be rebuilding two gearboxes at once in a few weeks. #1 - mine with mostly new parts where needed; and #2 - with mostly good condition used parts. I'll take measurements and photos as I proceed. Barrie Jones' gearbox video guides my disassembly and reassembly. I am using advice from experienced T-series enthusiasts, plus my friend Will Bowden will be looking over my shoulder during the entire process. Looking forward to both rebuilds. Possibly a good opportunity for a Tech Session for our MG club.

My "while-I'm-at-it" list of part$ is growing and growing.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

MOG, yes, at the back of the box.


Here's a shot of the absolute worst spot on any of the gear faces, the rest of the faces look barely polished. Not bad. Matter of fact the cluster gear looks brand new. Even the thrust surfaces aren't polished smooth yet. I'd take a picture of it but that would be showing off.

The more I dig into this car, the more convinced I am that 57K miles is pretty spot-on.... 'cept for decreptitude due to weather.

The first input shaft ball bearing is pretty noisy and wiggly.

The oil journal feeding the reverse gear shaft was pretty clogged as was the smaller one feeding the speedo drive.

Lots of gunk in the bottom of the case but nothing gritty or sparkly. The syncros look NEW!!!! Yay!!

Overall, a pretty well timed and inexpensive overhaul.

The engine isn't the original, maybe the trans too. I'm thinking the engine/trans might have seen much less mileage than the rest of the car.

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MAndrus

MAndrus, what gear is that picture you show? To me it does not look like any gear out of a TD or TF gearbox. I would not be thrilled about the condition of the teeth on what appears to be the 2nd gear cog on the cluster.
I have some near or near new shifter forks for sale as well as any other part for the gearbox.
Cheers, Hugh
H.D. Pite

HD, It's the 3rd gear. The cluster gear looks nearly new. The cogs shown are still smeared with oil and photograph worse than they are as the bearing surfaces are quite fresh looking.

2 moderately questionable teeth out of all of the teeth in the gearbox in a car destined to drive 2 or 3K miles a year. .....Good enough for now.

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MAndrus

Now that you identify it - it is obvious. I was thinking cluster gear since I have been focused on them recently.
Cheers, Hugh
H.D. Pite

A good welded can build up your shift forks and mill them back down to spec for quite a reasonable cost. This is what I did for mine and it has been trouble free ever since I repaired it. I can't recommend a new one unless the fork is actually broken.

I too am a bit concerned with the wear marks on the cog pictured at the right. Assuming it is just those two spots as you say that is likely not too bad.

Alex
Alex Waugh

This thread was discussed between 21/06/2015 and 22/06/2015

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