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MG TD TF 1500 - Turn Signal Switch

My switch works very well electrically, but it's impossible to get the same delay from one side to the other. If I set the left side to return in a set time period the right side returns too fast. If I set it for the right side to return correctly, the left side won't return at all. So, here's my question, If I remove the spring inside, will I be able to turn the switch left or right to stay in that position and return it to off by hand? I'd prefer to operate it manually anyway. PJ
Paul S Jennings

That is exactly what I did with mine. I also wired in a warning beeper to remind me to shut it off. The warning light is pretty well hidden from view in my driving position.
MG LaVerne

This is where I fitted the warning lights for turn signal and oil pressure warning. A buzzer is also fitted. The chrome T-handle is for a cable operated battery cut off switch.
Regards
Declan

D Burns

It's a good solution.
Dave H
Dave Hill

here is what I did. I monted an 3 ways
ON OFF ON switch on the left side of the steerin wheel, and 2 green lamps on either side of the steering column.IT is cabled in series with the original switch.
Thoralf. NORWAY TD 4490.
Thoralf Sorensen (TD4490)

All great ideas! Thanks guys, much appreciated. For me, the light and buzzer would be a good idea, as my hearing isn't what it used to be. My wife says I have selective hearing. I wonder what she means! LOL. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Close-up
Declan

D Burns

The delay is the same orifice, working through a cotton pad, for both sides. Internally, you must have more friction on the left side, or a broken ramp on the cam on the right side. I would see if I could get to the bottom of the friction.

Be careful of over-tightening the bleed screw while you are working on the delay.

I too have put a piezoelectric buzzer in my system to remind me to turn it off after a turn.

Warmly,
dave

Dave Braun

Thanks Dave, I pulled it apart once before and cleaned it inside plus soaked the leather with light oil. Surprised to see the leather in such good condition. It softened up after wiping with oil a few times and setting a couple days. I didn't notice anything wrong with the cam, but I wasn't looking that hard anyway. I'll check it this time. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Paul,
If you do install a piezoelectric buzzer you can make it's intensity adjustable be connecting a 5K trim potentiometer into the power line to the buzzer. I find that approx. halfway setting gives the right intensity.
Regards
Declan
D Burns

Thanks Declan, Much appreciated for the tip. How is it hooked up to work on right and left signals without one interfering with the other. Is there a diode insulating one side from the other? PJ
Paul S Jennings

Paul,
I have only one light with two arrows. The buzzer connects between the "P" on the flasher can and the bulkhead-i.e. parallel to the warning light. The red on the buzzer to "P" for negative earth cars and the the black to the bulkhead. For positive earth cars the black on the buzzer to "P" and the red to the bulkhead-no diodes. If you want to use separate warning lights for left and right you wire it differently-parallel to the actual indicator lamps from the "Direction indicator relay unit". It might be easier if you go that route, to just use two separate buzzers-one for left and one for right-so no diodes. Same rule applies for positive and negative cars. The buzzers are cheap enough.You can see the buzzer I used on my oil pressure switch adapter kits circuit board-bottom right. The same can be used for the indicators.

Regards
Declan

D Burns

Well I checked everything inside the switch and all looks like new, but I can not get the right and left to delay at the same rate. So, I pulled out the spring, put it back together, installed it back into the car and it works great! Sure I have to return it to the off position, but it takes half the effort to operate, clicks into the detents to hold a position very lightly but positive. It will remain that way as long as I have the car. Oh, the spring, it's in a safe place, tagged, with the rest of TF bits and pieces. PJ
Paul S Jennings

I hate to hijack, but I'm having the same problem as Paul.
I've taken apart, cleaned, and oiled the switch as per above. I get no (zero) delay at all! The spring just flips the switch right back. I've packed the breather hole with Qtip and it makes no effect on the "delay". I can even put my finger over the hole and still no delay. Would more or less packing lengthen the delay? Not sure how this works.

Also, Dave talks about "cams" above. Where are these cams and how does that work? He also talks about "index card shims" on his web site. Dave, I know it's been 12 years, but do you remember how this all works?

I know I can add a light and remove the spring but I want to try to make it right first.

Confused,
Ed
efh Haskell

Ed,
The switch must be sucking air into it somewhere for it is a pneumatic switch and relies on air being reintroduced to the body. Are you sure the leather "flap" seal is soft and seating and there are no cracks in the body.
John
John Walton

Never mind guys! I stumbled across that MGA website in the archives that explains this switchgreat detail. I actually got it working! Problem is my bakolite under the contacts is cracked on one side. I wonder if Superglue will hold bakolite?

Chuffed,
Ed
efh Haskell

Ed,
Super glue should work fine. I thought there may have been a crack in the body for there is no other place any air could enter, provided of course the leather seal is OK.
John
John Walton

Ed, I tried fixing my cracked bakelite and it just kept cracking more... these things have a lifespan and mine died ...
Today I use a $4 Ace hardware 3 way switch. When I win the lottery I'll spend $110 on a new repro unit...
Geoffrey M Baker

This thread was discussed between 20/04/2015 and 28/04/2015

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