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MG TD TF 1500 - Water pump disassembly 51TD
My water pump didn't look pretty, so I decided to disassemble it and see what it looks like on the inside. Interesting discoveries, as always. Firstly, there was no key on the shaft. None. The keyways are in good shape, so I should be able to fix that. The impeller came off (thanks to all on the forum for posting everything about everything, I found the thread discussing the tapered pin that holds the impeller on. I drilled it out carefully and it came apart nicely. As far as the rest of the pump, no problems taking it apart at all. The circlips were a pain, but I think new ones should be available somewhere, Dave Braun's photos show new ones being installed. I'm thinking I will rebuild with new bearings. The shaft is somewhat worn, but useable, I think - and anyway, you can't buy one new as far as I can see. The only real wear was between the pump body and the pulley, where I think slow water leaks were eating away the shaft. Otherwise, it's pretty good. I heard somewhere that someone is now selling nylon impellers, has anyone tried one? I may also look at the 6 vane bronze impellers available on ebay. What do you recommend I use to replace the drilled-out tapered pin? I could make up one... |
Geoffrey M Baker |
Taper pins in various sizes should be available from an engineering parts outlet. If you are really desperate to reuse the old shaft you can have it built up in the eroded section and re machined to size. A good engineering shop will have the resources to accomplish this task. |
G Evans |
It appears that I have a later TD water pump on an early TD engine. The bearings are sealed, there is a long spacer between them, I have a rubber seal, and no felt washers. |
Geoffrey M Baker |
How big is the big end of your taper pin? I have a supply and could put one in the post. (South Bend lathes use them all over the place.) All taper pins have the same taper. The size number of the pin determines the large diameter. They are soft and can easily be cut with a hack saw. The only issue will be if you banged the hole in drilling. Then you will need a taper pin reamer and a larger pin. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
Thanks Jim, I'm thinking I could just drill into the shaft for about 1/8 inch and insert a spring pin like this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-spring-pins/=whr7p4 What do you think? They also sell taper pins. I also can probably pick up a spring pin at a local hardware store. So long as it protrudes into the shaft for a short distance, it should lock it up tight, I would think. I appreciate the offer, but I am sure these are cheap and available! No need to spend the postage :) Another question, does anyone know of a good diagram of the water pump online anywhere? The Moss motors one is very lo-res. |
Geoffrey M Baker |
I have used spring pins in this manner also. I have always "felt" better about replacing the taper pin with a taper pin however. I dont know if they are better of worse, its just that they were there. If you have a local ACE hardware they do have both kinds of pins. I got mine from McMasters. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
What about a supplier for other pump parts? I need to replace the rubber bushing, the rubber is deformed and cracked and the inner spring is broken. Moss only carries the bearings as far as I can see... |
Geoffrey M Baker |
Geof, For what it's worth, I have a hydraulics business and rebuild pumps, but I gave up long ago on reworking these for lack of replacement parts. Maybe others know something I don't, but I bought 3 replacements from Moss years ago and installed 2. Made in India then. I had to grind the rough casting in order to fit the hose on decently. The fan casting on the one we run is so out of true, the fan wobbles. We got what we paid for. Hope our third one is better or I may go to electric fan. |
JRN JIM |
Spring. Looking at the WSM, does anything here work? http://www.mcmaster.com/#compression-springs/=whrzni Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
Jim B, the spring isn't much good without the rubber bushing and that's cracked beyond use. I could probably do something with felt washers I suppose, as per the early pump... or of course just buy a new pump! |
Geoffrey M Baker |
It is the seal, not a bushing. Read up in the archives. |
George Butz |
You are absolutely correct, George... I sometimes use the wrong terminology :) I've searched extensively through the archives and it seems like the water pump seal for later TD's (which is what my pump is from even if the car is not a later TD) is no longer available. Does anyone have an update on this? Hoping someone was finally able to source one... I checked Abingdon, AngloParts and a few others and all showed N/A... |
Geoffrey M Baker |
Hello Geoffery. The seals haven't been available for over ten years. Any that people have them need to check carefully because in that time the rubber can oxidize and crack. There are a couple of us that are rebuilding the original pumps. It takes a bit of machining. Butch 51 TD 51 Y |
R Taras |
Hi Geoffrey and others, A seal which fits the later type pump perfectly is easily available. They are about $25 from my local seal supplier as long as I buy them in numbers. I sent a couple to another guy in USA who had the same problem and I have fitted them to a couple of pumps myself. That should show up in the archives somewhere. The part numbers don't compute outside Australia so there is probably no point in looking that up for you. I should buy a batch and sell them on EBAY. (I must learn how to do that!) A big parts supplier in USA and another in UK pinched my idea for rear crank seals in the late 80s (although they have managed to make the design less efficient) so I am reluctant to give them the details. I will email you to arrange to post a seal to you if you like. Yours oTCagonally, Bob Schapel |
R L Schapel |
Sounds good Bob! |
Geoffrey M Baker |
My email is geoffreybaker@cox.net Bob, I look forward to hearing from you, I will definitely buy one! If this fits the later pump without modification, then all I should need are some Moss bearings and I'm in business! |
Geoffrey M Baker |
Geoff, Bob is the same person that I posted about seals in your IMPELLER DESIGN thread,,, I guess you never read it,,,,, Steve |
Steve Wincze |
Thanks Steve, The seal I have used in previous years needed an adaptor but last year John Walton, from Sydney, came up with an option which does not need an adaptor. When presented with John's information my local supplier found another identical seal. (Strangely with a different part number!) They are the perfect solution. Later style water pump seals are no longer a problem. Thanks John. I am about to post one to Geoff. Bob Schapel |
R L Schapel |
Steve W, thanks, yes I did read it. I was trying to find an email address for Bob when he posted here and then contacted me! Thanks for supplying the info, it has opened up a new possible avenue... |
Geoffrey M Baker |
This thread was discussed between 27/03/2015 and 30/03/2015
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