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MG TD TF 1500 - When Does the Drip Become a Problem

Whilst trying to sort the never ending problem with the engine spitting and backfiring (I now call the TF Christine after the evil American car in the excellent film) I have noticed more oil than usual on the garage floor under the bell housing. The engine is half dismantled and I could easily remove it to fit a seal kit. However there is the debate on whether they work and they are quite expensive. Also whilst reading up on them I now realize that a drip is inevitable when the engine is switched off due to the oil still in the archimedes thread. My car has been in the same spot for weeks and I have started and stopped it many, many times whilst adjusting the timing, carbs etc. etc. It is possible that the drips have simply accumulated so what's normal. Can I expect to see more oil on the floor if the engine is stopped and started a number of times.

Regards to all

Jan T
J Targosz

Jan,
Each time you stop the engine, you will get the same amount,, ie the screw will drip the oil that is left on it. So stop it once and you will get x amount,, Start it and stop it twice, and you will see 2x the amount, and so on,,,

Steve
Steve Wincze

Jan, I'm still curious about your ignition wires, NGK pieces and ignition. Could you please tell me about them? Bud
Bud Krueger

The other cause of oil passing through the scroll is above normal positive crankcase pressure.

Following on from your problems, it raises two points.

Are the two pressure outlets from the crankcase, the tube from the tappet cover and the tube from the rocker cover completely clear to allow the gases to pass through.

Is there excess pressure due to blow-by from the pistons, linked to the inlet and outlet manifold explosions? Is the source of all your problems linked to, for example, a damaged piston ring. I know pressure tests show balanced readings, but do they still?
Ian Bowers

Hi All,

Thanks for the responses.

First off all a message to Bud. I have replaced all the ignition components with new items purchased from the Distributor Doctor. He only sells top quality (but expensive) parts. The plugs, leads and caps are made by NGK and I am told they are the best you can buy.

Regarding the engine I have now found one of the valve guides to be cracked. The oil slinger tube in the smaller of the valve springs was seized to collect retaining washer and I suspect this was at an angle and has been touching the guide. This could also account for the tapping sound I have been hearing. Maybe the problem is a sticking valve?

The head is now in the machine shop for new cast iron guides to be fitted and I propose to turn a groove in the top of these to take Mini seals so I can dispense with the slingers.

In desperation to cure the backfiring I was going lift the engine so I could fix a protractor to the front pulley to check the valve timing and fit a rear seal kit at the same time. However, and I think this is a good tip, you can make up a protractor disc that is a tight fit over the starting handle shaft and check the timing against a line on a piece of masking tape fitted to the front bumper. I have already made up a catch tank and will be using that.

Ian also makes a good point and what should possibly be another thread. I have been running the engine without air cleaners and found oil was splashing out of the breather pipe stub in the rocker cover. I simply plugged this with a piece of rag but this could have increased crank case pressure. This splashing appears to have occurred after I fitted a new rocker shaft and bushes. Peter Edney who supplied the shaft suggests I plug the hole in the oil feed banjo and redrill at 2m/m. Is anyone able to comment on this?

I appologise for continuing the story of my woes but I do like to read about other owners' problems - especially when they are not mine!

Cheers

Jan T
J Targosz

Jan, I was advised to redrill my oil-feed banjo to 1/16th inch, not far off your 2mm.
I have not had any trouble and there is ample oil in the roller area.
Don TF 4887 "Figaro' TC 1736 "Sibelious"
Don Walker

If you are running the original air cleaner, there is a restrictor in the pipe which should prevent excess oil from going into the intake. With new shaft and bushings, I would not worry about it. Restricting flow to head also reduces head cooling and camshaft lubrication, so I'm not a fan of that. George
George Butz

This thread was discussed between 17/08/2016 and 18/08/2016

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