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Triumph TR3 - Floor Pans

Greetings all,

When I jacked up the driver's side of my TR3A, I noticed what appears to be two floor pans underneath. The outer, or lower, layer has some missing sheet metal, presumably from rusting out, but another sheet metal layer has clearly been laid over it.

Never having dealt with floor pans, I'd love to know what to make of this. When lifting the carpeting inside, the floor pans seem solid enough, and they seem to join properly around the edges.

Thanks for any clues and advice.

Bill Stagg
1961 TR3A

Bill Stagg

Hi Bill:it looks to me like a previous owner simply overlaid a floorpan or a sheet of metal on the original.If the top pan is in descent shape you could spray "Rust Check"or some other rust preventative in between the 2 layers to delay further rusting.Otherwise you will have to cut out what is there and put in new floor pans.
Chuck

Thanks for the insight, Chuck. Is overlaying a floor pan a viable way to address the situation? How much tear down is required to cut out and weld in new pans? Lastly, what are the better sources or makes of replacement floor pans? I've seen new ones offered on e-bay, but don't know how to judge them.

Many thanks!

Bill Stagg
1961 TR3A
Bill Stagg

Hi Bill:I do not believe that overlaying a floor pan with another makes a very good repair.It will just create a major rust problem between the layers particularly if the lower pan already has rust perforation.I am not much of a bodyman but if the inside of the car is, or has to have the carpet removed it should not be much of a job for a bodyman to remove and replace the floor pans.At the same time it would give you a chance to assess the condition of the inner sills.If the original floor is gone there is a good possibility of rust damage to the sills.
I have always had pretty good luck with The Roadster Factory and they often have good winter sales.You could compare the prices to the stuff on E-bay but you will have no recourse if there is a problem.
The number for the Roaster Factory in Pa.is1-800-234-1104.
Chuck

Bill - We who have had our TR's a little longer than you often evoke the old adage, "If it ain't broke - don't fix it".

I assume that you will spray under the car like Chuck suggests to reduce the "evil rust plaque". I agree. But if you are planning to drive your TR only on dry days plus during occasional sudden surprise rainbursts over the next couple of summers only, then drive it like it is. Learn to enjoy it now!!! Then in a couple of years, you will have the wisdom from others who have done this and you will do it better - and "right the first time". Like Chuck says, the sills may need changing too. This means a 2 or 3 year job like I took to do mine from 1987 to 1990. I bought and welded in new floor pans exactly like the originals. The "late TR3A" that I'm doing now
will have exact floor pans with all the correct floor impressions too.

To see what mine involved, click on the Montreal Triumph Club site:-

http://www.rucompatible.com/triumphmtl/

Then on "Member Cars" and also "Member Profiles", then scroll down to my name and click again to see all about my restoration.

Don Elliott, TS 27489 LO

Don Elliott

Hello Bill - I am in the exact same boat you are. My car had a "frame on" restoration done about 20 yrs. ago. There is a very small amount of perforation on each pan. The PO decided at the time to have new aluminum sheets overlaid on instead of cutting out the old and welding in new. Whoever did it for him did a very nice job, so I have no complaints.
I want to drive my car a few seasons, getting to know it - since I only got one drive before the snow came! (not to mention the fan belt breaking)
Eventually, when I know the car better and as other things age, I will consider a "ground up" restoration. But for now, the car drives nicely and the rust on the pans is about the only rust there is - so it will remain where it is - it's not really hurting anything.
So Don's right - enjoy your car now!
Get her running nice, form a good working knowledge of it, then get to the serious stuff.
That's my plan anyway. Have fun above all else!
Mike
Mike Gambordella

All,

Thanks for the information and the excellent advice. From what I can tell, the floors look solid and safe enough, so I'd like nothing better than to put off this work and enjoy the car. Consistent with "shipwright's disease," one discovery keeps leading to another, then another... If you're not careful, the restoration is soon underway.

I'm finally ready to install the windshield wiper gear, followed by the heater and plumbing. I've already cleaned the "dirt of the ages" out of the gauges and installed the cubby box gear, so I'm just about done with the dash related work. It will then be time to get back under the hood.

While we're on the subject of rust, I would like to treat the residual rust that's on the top side of the seat pans (beneath the cushions). What products are recommended for treating rust areas (after initial wire brushing) and then painting?

Mike, I know you're as eager as I am to get these cars back on the road. Here's where we congratulate ourselves for getting what appear to be roadworthy TRs!

Best regards,

Bill Stagg
1961 TR3A
Bill Stagg

Bill - If you can find a paint shop that has a sand blaster or another shop that specialises in sand blasting, take out the seat pans, get them sand blasted and then paint them. If they look OK with the seat cushions in place, paint them over the rust - or leave them till later. They won't fall apart in May or August while you are taking a nice long sweeping curve at speed in the brisk evening air with your favorite lady at your right side. The seats won't care and you'll have other more interesting things on your mind than rusty seat pans.

Enjoy your girl (your TR) as well as that nice lady in your life too !!

Don Elliott Original Owner, 1958 TR3A

P.S. I have known that nice lady I live with for 5 years more than I've owned my TR3A. I was 15, she was 14 !!!
Don Elliott

This thread was discussed between 10/01/2003 and 18/01/2003

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