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Triumph TR3 - Greasing Front Hubs with Wire Wheels

Greetings from the grease pit...

What's the 1,2,3 procedure for greasing the front hubs on a TR3A with wire wheels? I've read the manual, but I'm stumped by the wire adaptors.

I'm assuming the wire hub adaptors have to be removed to gain access to the grease cap and bearings. With the disc caliper removed and hung out of the way, how are the four nuts holding the hub adaptor best removed given that the wheel now spins freely?

What's in store once the hub adaptor is removed?

Thanks for the help.

Bill Stagg
1961 TR3A
Bill Stagg

Here's an update. It seems the wire hub adaptors do need to be removed, and the only they're coming off is by taking a trip my friendly tire shop where they will loosen them with an impact wrench and then hand tighten them so I can remove them at home.

Onward...

Bill
Bill Stagg

Next Christmas (or if your birthday is earlier) ask for an air compressor and impact set. I use mine all the time and with a rolling hydraulic lift jack like they use in a garage, it takes seconds to have it up safely.

I also have a 1/4" pneumatic socket drive and using it, I can have the front bumper, valance and rad out in an hour. It buzzes for 20 seconds and a bolt is out. That's 3 bolts a minute or all 24 valance bolts in less than 10 minutes.

Also with thia 1/4 pneumatic socket drive I can get the seats out (16), the carpets, the floor tunnel (12)the bell housing bolts (12) and the gearbox (6)out in an hour or a bit more.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

Hi Bill:
All you have to do is put a piece of wood as a brace between the bottom of the front seat and the brake pedal to hold the brake on and loosen the nuts with an ordinary socket they are only on at 60 lbs.If you have a willing wife she can hold her foot on the brake while you undo the nuts.These nuts are rt hand thread on both sides
Chuck

Chuck and Don,

Thanks to you both for the help. I'm thinking the hub adaptor nuts were put on with an industrial strength impact driver as I cannot for the life of me get them to budge. Once I have them loosened, is there any need to use a threadlocker when retightening them?

Many thanks!

Bill
Bill Stagg

Bill-It has been a long time since I have removed wire wheel adapters, but I think it involved wedging a steel bar between the back side of the hub and the bottom of the caliper to prevent rotation. I have never found it necessary to use thread locker on the beveled nuts.
Berry

Berry,

Are those nuts beveled on both sides? If not, the ones on my adaptors have the beveled side facing out, not against the adaptor. I'm wondering if the flat side of the nut has been driven into the dished hole in the adaptor. That may be causing some of the resistance to removal.

Thanks for your help!

Bill
Bill Stagg

Bill-The nuts should be double beveled, but someone may have "improvised" over the years.
Berry

This thread was discussed between 06/12/2003 and 10/12/2003

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