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Triumph TR3 - Is There Something Better Than Gunk's White Lithiu

While searching for the source of a weird sound at the right rear wheel area, I discovered that the white lithium I applied to the wire wheel and hub about a year ago (or less), had all hardened and the wheel was stuck on so tight I had to use the hammer on one edge (from the back) and pry with the other hand. I reapplied the product, and put it on the other "stuck" wheels as well. And the weird sound was the loosening of the front wheel, which hadn't been touched for at least six months - I thought these things were supposed to get even tighter in use.

Does anyone have a better product, or brand for lubrication - and what is the normal frequency?
DJ Nelson

DJ NELSON
Hello,
I have had the same problem with my 57 tr. I found information years ago
(do't know where) that said not to put anything on the spindles. It said
that the dust would combine with oil or grease and form a hard product
that made it be very hard to remove wheels. I found that to be very true!!
It said clean every thing off and wire brush spindles and hubs and put
wheels back on car without any thing on them and do that about 3 or 4 times per yr.
It does seem to work wheels come off much better.

Good luck
Artazz
artazz

DJ I think it's a dammed if you do and dammed if you don't thing. The grease will pick up dust but I have also seen dry splines(no grease) that were rusted solid. I think the big issue is to rotate them regularly. Mine are off at least twice a year and I use general purpose grease sparingly. Re loose knock-off. Are they on the correct side left on left , right on right? Dumb question I know but it can happen with the bolt on hubs.
B. Towne

I looked at the side issue, and they are on the right side. Only the one wheel loosens. My mechanic suspects that the hub or wheel may not have a good fit between the surfaces that touch, and if one is "out of round" it might loosen. This will be tested, first with a different wheel, but I certainly know what the sound is now - and pay attention to it.
DJ Nelson

DJ, Did the knockoff come loose or the splined adapter come loose from the hub? I once had a car that had wires added but the wrong nuts / studs were used and the wheel actually was sitting on the nuts instead of seating against the angled shoulder of the splined adapter. Check the nuts, and the back side of the wheel for any rub marks.
You go to Ralley In The Valley? I'll be there. Brian
B. Towne

The easy solution for wire wheels that are stuck in place is to pull the stunt a friend of mine and I did with a Healey 100-6 he purchased many, many years ago. The car had been sitting for some time and the brakes needed a thorough refurbishment. We tried to pull the wire wheels to no avail. Then the idea hit. We went to Brake-O and took advantage of their free brake inspection and repair estimate. They worked away for a couple of hours and finally got the wheels off so they could pull the drums for the inspection and estimate. After they confirmed what we already knew and provided the estimate, we thanked them and left. A quick stop at the nearby BAP and it was back to his place to do the work.

As for the question at hand, I always liked to apply the grease on wire wheel cars as it minimizes the chance of galling between the mating splines. The key was to pull the wheels periodically, clean and regrease.
SteveP

Answers:
- thanks for the feedback - I think I will stick with White Lithium, but rotate the wheels more often. Always need to check the studs to see if they are still tight.
- my wheels had no grease when I bought the car, and the splines were also mickey moused to stop the clunks, so I had hubs that would either not come off, or would only fit with one wheel. The first flat tire was a learning experience. The seller couldn't remember why he had the new wire wheel conversion kit that came with the car. hmmmm
- yes I will be at the Rally in the Valley, about a dozen cars from the BC Triumph Registry will drive up.
- I've also created the loose hub problem, as the nuts haven't got a lot of thread to hold onto, with the conversion kits. That creates a terrible rattling sound when they are loose, and you think the car will fall apart. The loose wheel sound is like a "soft" rubbing sound.
- I love the brake inspection idea
DJ Nelson

DJ and All Just got my copy of British Motoring (Moss magazine) and noticed an add for Copaslip Wire Wheel Lube. Moss # 221-405 $7.95 US complete with statement
" Wheel and hub surfaces should becleaned and relubricated at least once per year as part of a regular maintenance." Brian
B. Towne

This thread was discussed between 29/05/2004 and 22/07/2004

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