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Triumph TR3 - Preserving Knock-Offs

Gang,

Santa has been officially asked for a new set of two-eared chrome knock-offs this year. The current set appears to have been assaulted repeatedly by an extremist wielding a jackhammer.

Naturally, should said knock-offs appear under the tree, I would like to keep them in fine condition as time goes by. Questions: What's the best way to keep them pristine? What's the right hammer to use? How much is "enough" when knocking them on? Do those wooden "knock-off wrenches" really work?

Not that Santa will deliver on this, but I want to be ready just in case.

Thanks.

Bill Stagg
1961 TR3A
Bill Stagg

Not having wire wheels, I can't help much. Everyone puts on wires when they do a restoration because they look "pretty", but when I bought "TRusty" brand new in 1958, I wanted pressed steel wheels. Not just because they were about $50.00 cheaper but because at that time, STEEL WHEELS WERE BEING TOUTED AS THE LATEST TECHNOLOGY, OVERCOMING ALL THE PROBLEMS THAT THE OLD TECH. WIRE WHEELS GAVE !!!

I believe that a lead hammer for wire wheels that will swing more clout (Momentum = Mass times Velocity) than a wooded hammer and the lead will deform before the wings - or the chrome on them - get damaged.

I've also seen a huge closed end key that had a lever arm length oF about 15" and which was advertised to help the ladies remove their wire wheels when they got a flat tire (punctured tyre for the Brits).

If you don't get a proper answer here, go to the MG, A-H or Jag site and ask.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

Hi:Bill:
I use a plastic 1lb dead hammer.It will not damage the knock-off.A 11/2 or2lb might be a little better.
You would want to be careful using anything that extends the ears on your new knock-offs because it would act as a lever and you could very easily over tighten them.
Chuck

Chuck and Don,

Santa thanks you for your insights.

About tightening, how would you characterize how much is enough? Should one whack away until the knock-off won't turn any more, or are we going for more of a "snug" fit?

Thus far, I've used the leather-faced end of the copper/rawhide mallet that came with the car. Seems to work fine, but the ears were so beat up when I got the car that it's hard to tell if I'm adding to the "look." As well, the copper-faced side of the mallet was pretty beat up, so perhaps that's where the damage came from.

Now to wait for Santa...

Regards,

Bill
Bill Stagg

Bill - Contact Dayton and ask about "How tight is tight enough" ?

http://www.daytonwirewheels.com/html/contact.htm

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

Don,

Great suggestion and thanks for making it easy. I just submitted questions on the "tightness" issue as well as the recommended hammer surface to prevent marring the knock-offs. I'll report what I hear.

Many thanks,

Bill
Bill Stagg

Hi Bill:
Originally (probably late thirties and late forties) the instruction manual for the cars equipped with wire wheels called for the knock-off to be hand tightened.They were considered to be self tightening(left hand thread on one side).Obviously if they were not they would come undone.
Later on the instruction was to tighten them firmly.The reason I use a 1lb hammer is because I figure I can't do much damage with it.
Chuck

Gents,

This, from Mike at Dayton:

"The caps should bottom-out on the hub when they are tight. Use a lead hammer. The lead is much softer than steel & it dents instead of the cap."

Can anyone explain what Mike means by "bottom-out on the hub"?

We're getting close...

Bill
Bill Stagg

Ask Mike what he means.

Don
Don Elliott

Reporting back...

Regarding the tightness factor, Mike from Dayton Wheels sez: "'Bottom-out' means that the cap stops against the nose of the hub before being completely threaded."

Regarding the definitive whacker/hammer, Mike simply sez: "Lead is best." Even after I asked about cowhide.

There you have it, gents.

Bottoms up, and get the lead out...

Bill
Bill Stagg

Bill:

I have always used a tightly rolled up newspaper placed on the ear before I wack it with my 24oz rawhide hammer. A person at Dayton Wheel once told me that you should never wack on the ear while the wheel is on the ground for fear of sending the shock through the spokes.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
USA
Louis Metelko

To the Knock-off Panel of Experts,

Ok...I think I've used my three free "lifeline" questions alotted by Dayton. Here's the latest (and last, I think) exchange with Mike:

My question:

Mike,

Does this mean you should continue hitting the knock-off until it refuses to move any further? Is that the evidence that suggests it's "bottomed-out"

Just trying to gauge how far to continue tightening these puppies without marring them."

Mike's answer:

"Continue hitting the knock-off until it refuses to move any further."

I think that pretty well settles it. Dayton says to use a lead hammer and hit the knock-offs until they won't move any more. Thanks for the tip on the rolled newspaper, Lou. That makes a lot of sense. The knock-off hammer that conveyed with my car has a copper side that is beaten beyond recognition. I understand now how my knock-offs got to look so abused.

Now I have to get back to Santa...

Regards,

Bill
Bill Stagg

This thread was discussed between 10/11/2003 and 15/11/2003

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