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Triumph TR3 - Suggestions for Front End Work

Greetings all,

I'm putting together my program of TR work for a two-week break I have for the holidays and would appreciate some advice. On the agenda is: installing a front bumper, heater system, wiper components (all), pulling the radiator for inspection/repair, new hoses, fanbelt and thermostat. The question is, as long I have the front apron pulled and am into the belly to this extent, should other items be added to the list? I've got just enough time to order or scavenge parts. Remember that I pilot the Valdez, so anything that would stem the flow of oil is a plus (and I believe there is oil seeping from the rear of the headgasket).

I'm happy to report that the parts and service manuals arrived yesterday, and what a difference a view makes!

Many thanks,

Bill Stagg
1961 TR3A, comm. #TS67947L

Bill Stagg

Bill, I have my TR apart to the same degree as you right now. I am comtemplating pulling the timing chain cover and at least replacing the gasket while inspecting the guts for wear. I also noticed slight surface rust where the innner fenders mate to the outer ones. I may, after dealing with my fan/fan belt issues, pull the fenders and re-do that portion of the metal surfaces. You also might want to change your oil pan gasket. Don Elliot talked about what he did here in an earlier thread - sounded well engineered. What about degreasing the entire engine? Anyway, just thinking aloud. Good luck and have fun!
Mike Gambordella '56 TR3 #9865
Mike Gambordella

If you go that far - make sure you change the timing chain tensioner. This is a small curved leaf spring "thingy" that lies curved against the outer links of the timing chain and rubs against the inside of the timing chain cover. After about 50,000 miles the edges of the chain links wear two grooves into the spring and it loses its ability to function. When it's worn, and you rev the engine then take your foot off the gas, you can hear it slapping and sounding generally noisy and loose.

It's a part the costs about $2.00

If you have it apart and are planning to pull apart the control head and horn assembly, and looking at your wires coming out the front of the steering box, don't cut them. Each wire is slightly different in length. Dress the wires nicely after dis-connecting the "bullet" connectors and you will see this. Wrap masking tape around all the wires in a spiral manner and they will make one nice (small) bundle of wires that will pull through nicely. To fish them back in, attach one long solid wire to the and of the taped end with a bit more tape and feed it all in and pull it all through.

Don Elliott
Don Elliott

Bill-Here is my unsolicited $.02
1. Timing cover seal, check chain&sprockets,tensioner, check inside of timing cover for wear.
2. Check or replace crank pulley halves-they are prone to cracking and not fun to replace without rad. removal. Also,maybe replace the rubber fan bushings.
3.Check the pipe that connects the lower rad hoses for rust inside. Also, check the water pump.
4. If the steering gear is loose or leaky now is the easiest time to deal with it. At a minimum, probably the bushing&seal will need replacement.
Sometimes it is more fun to talk about working on Triumphs than to actually do the work.
Berry

With it all open, it's easy to remove the generator and check the brushes inside.

Also to remove or re-install a fan belt, crank the steering wheel "hard left" as far as you can and you get an extra 1/2" clearance between the pulley hub extension and the steering cross-bar.

Also make sure you have the "C" pieces that are fastened to the 4 bolts on the front end holding the fan in the new rubber mounts Berry talked about. These are to reduce harmonics in the crankshaft.

I'm right there just now with the 1960 TR3A in my garage that I'm restoring for a fellow who lives in Toronto. The frame was like a French croissant when I tapped it with my ball pean hammer. So it's a full body off restoration like I did on mine 15 years ago.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott


Wow, what great suggestions for keeping busy over the holidays. Berry, your point is well taken about talking vs. working, but I'm really looking forward to getting in there. I ordered parts last night that will hopefully allow me to keep on working, but I'm sure something will catch me by surprise.

Stand by for more questions in the coming weeks. Til then, season's greetings!

Bill Stagg
1961 TR3A

Bill Stagg

Don't forget to remove the top rear hose (about 1" diameter curving down about 4" long) coming out the top of the water pump to block the "by-pass" as described in another earlier thread.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

Hello everyone, This, like most of the other threads has been educational. However, I think I need some help here. You've all read in an earlier thread how I have well, HAD, a TR6 fan on my car. So it's apart now, and I'd like to mount the TR250 fan on, (as Chuck recommended) but does it require any of the rubber bushings or "C" pieces that the TR3 fan needs?
(cause I ain't got 'em!) I took your advice and bought Bob Shaller's book. Good stuff. But one thing I can't figure - when you block off the by-pass and use a regular thermostat, how can the water circulate around the block prior to operating temp? It can't enter the rad. nor can it get down to the impeller. Am I missing something? Are the original sleeved units still available?
Don, the ealier thread about your steering repair seems to have mysteriously disappeared from the archives. I'm contemplating looking in the box to check the condition. Any tips?
Another question I have is about the crank bolt. It is supposed to be at "10 to 4" with the engine at TDC, and mine is more like "5 to 5". How important is the exact location, and can I use any washers that fit as shims, or should I buy multiples of the original equipment?
Thank you very much to everyone here. I'd like to say again there's no subsitute for experience, and to someone who's never dismantled an auto before, your help has been invaluable.
Mike Gambordella 1956 TR3 comm. #9865
Mike Gambordella

Mike-From the diagram in the manual of the cooling system, when the thermostat is closed the water makes a loop through the block, head, and heater. The impeller is fed by the opening in the block. Original type thermostats are available from Moss for about $37, probably other sources too. I think most people just put a plug in the bypas hose with a 3/16" hole. The C balance pieces aren't used with the TR250 fan, but you will need the rubber bushes. The red TR6 fans are in demand, check ebay.
Berry

Mike - Go to "Search", type "rack and pinion" then click on "all of these words" and "TR3". Then you will get it. Plus a lot more info too.

It's under "New Owner".

If you remove the cover of the steering box, I don't think you will see much. Before that, move the steering wheel to see where the play is - if any. Then you have to jack up the car and set it safely on jack stands. Then move the steering wheel. If the steering is still free at the extreme lock to lock ends, then you can tighten down on the steering peg. If it gets really tight near the extreme lock to lock ends, then the worm where the adjustable peg on the top of the steering box cover has been rubbing on the worm and it is probably worn. And the PO has adjusted it too tight.

It is really something you have to feel by driving the car on the road when there is no traffic around. I'd leave it till the spring when everything else is done, except the valance is still off and drive the TR without the valance.

Or you could order the kit from England. If you need info call Glen Hewitt at Protek direct on 011 44 1491 832372 and ask who his US agent is. I seem to remember he was in Raleigh or Roanoke.

If the hex nut holding on the pulley hub is at 5 to 5 as opposed to 10 to 4, all it means that when you engage the end of the hand crank into the hex nut, you will have the handle in your right hand at about 1 PM instead of about 2 pm and when you go to push down on the crank handle (clockwise) it may be a little harder to get the handle and the engine to start to rotate because it's a little higher and you will have to force it out to the right, then down, that's all.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

Thank you gentlemen.
Berry, I had forgotten that the pump backs up to the opening in the block! Anyway, my plan is to use the TR250 fan, an industrial Modine core in the rad, and I actually have a sleeved thermo. from the PO, so I'll test it. That should cure my cooling problems.

Don, I went back and found your steering box info. which I had previously saved. When I test drove this car at the PO's house and then drove it again at home, the steering seemed fine, so now that it's already on stands, I'll do the free play test.

Oh, if anyone has the latest TRF sale catalog(Autum Car Show Edition) you can see what I belive to be my car - albeit while still in the PO's possession, on the back page in the show photo. It's the green one with the bonnet in the down position right where it says see page 99,etc. I'm going to try to confirm this.
Anyway, thanks again guys! Happy wrenching.
Mike Gambordella '56 TR3
Mike Gambordella

This thread was discussed between 05/12/2002 and 09/12/2002

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