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Triumph TR6 - Another Alternator conversion question

Guys,
I've seen all the stuff in the archives about using the 55 Amp Bosch replacement for our cars. My Lucas finally gave up the ghost, and I decided to follow your lead, but am confused.

I tried contacting Paul Willis, but he had only 3 wire models and didn't know how to set it up for a 5 wire harness. So I went to Napa, and the Bosch is actually listed under a TR6. I went to pick it up today, and the connections don't look too similar at all.

My harness and the Lucas have the 2 big connections for B+ and B-, and IND for the indicator, and two other connections that I think are jumped to each other.

The Bosch has two big connections and a small one inside a rectangular cutout, and the two big ones look connected to each other. There's one last small connector on its own. The guy at the store thinks this model get the B- through the case, and the two big connectors are indeed B+.

Is this the same Bosch the rest of you got? And if it is, were you able to make it work with the 5 wire harness?

Any help appreciated. The TR's been sleeping for too long.....

Thanks,
Mark
Mark Hauser

Mark,

There are really only four wires on your existing alternator. One of the brown/yellow wires goes up into the harness a little bit and then comes right back out again. Loosen up the harness a bit and pull this little bit of wire out, cut it off and discard it.

Connect the large brown wire to one of the large spade lugs. Connect the remaining brown/yellow wire to the smaller spade lug. Insulate and tie off the small brown wire, it will no longer be needed. This small brown wire was used for voltage sensing input to the regulator. Your new alternator senses voltage internally.
Dan Masters

Thanks Dan, I'm almost there (I think). Of my five wires:
-Small brown-obsolete as you noted
-Large Red as you noted, to large spade connector.
-Large Black-obsolete. Grounded through the case (right? This was one of my problems)

I knew the remaining two brown/yellows were connected and one is all I need for the indicator lamp. But can you tell which of the small lugs on the alternator does it go to? There's one in the cutout with the two large spade lugs, and another isolated by itself. This link goes to the NAPA Online website and has a picture, if that helps.

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15519360&prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid=85716653

Sorry to be so dense. I'm trying not to fry anything.

Thanks,
Mark
Mark Hauser

Mark -Did you buy this one already. I have a brand new one for sale cheaper than thatand no core.
Don K.
DON KELLY

Don,
I already did buy this one, because I thought Marcello was taking yours. I looked again at his reply and realize I misread it. So I'm kicking myself twice.

Sorry,
Mark
Mark Hauser

Mark,

I'm going to have to plead ignorance on this one. The alternators I've seen had only the three terminals in the rectangular recess. This one looks like it also has a stud terminal on it as well.
Dan Masters

Mark,

I did a little looking and came up with the answer for you. Check out Bob Muenchausen's web site for details, at:

http://www.s95408591.onlinehome.us/16601.html

His wiring is for an MGB, but it will be exactly the same for your TR6
Dan Masters

When I did my Bosch conversion, I didn't have to take my factory plug apart or off. It plugged right into the Bosch. As a matter of fact, I used the same belt. All I had to do was grind a little off of the adjustment bracket to clear the Bosch fan blades. It was off of a 78 Ford Fiesta. From what I understand, the one for the Ford Fiesta with a/c and rear defrost had a little higher amp rating than the one I have.(55 amp)
Gene Holtzclaw

I have three wires attached to my Bosch. I pushed the female terminals out of my stock plastic connectors, insulated them, and put them on the Bosch spades. Mine has the "stud terminal" that I simply insulated.
Rick Orthen

Dan/Everyone,
I used Bob Muenchausens' diagram (thanks Dan--just what I needed) to go over the alternator with the manager of the NAPA store. Its exactly correct, with the indicator going to the third, small spade in the recess. The last 'mystery' spade had something to do with noise reduction for radios, and won't be used.

So in the end, this is a two-wire connection.

Thanks again to the BBS for unraveling another mystery.

Mark
Mark Hauser

I spoke a little too soon, but this may be unrelated to the alternator.

I got the new alternator in yesterday, and charged the battery overnight because the tag on the alternator said to do that before starting. I turn the key, lights on but no crank. Not even a click. The ammeter gets pinned to the 'D' side.

I thought maybe the charger was bad, so I used jumpers from my truck, no difference. The battery reads 13.5 so you'd think it would at least click the solenoid even if it didn't crank the motor.

Bad starter? Car's been sitting since Thanksgiving. Just a heck of a coincidence that it failed at exactly the same time.

Thanks, and Happy New Year to everyone.
Mark
Mark Hauser

This thread was discussed between 17/12/2004 and 01/01/2005

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