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Triumph TR6 - Anyone have experience with POR-15?

Jim said he used it on his frame and had a great experience. I'm thinking about trying the stuff and seeing how it works.

On my floorboards, there isn't any horrible rust, but some pretty good surface rust. Do I need to get it down to the bear metal for the POR-15 to adhere properly? Can I then paint right over it with a color close to my car's color?

If I get the oily gunk and grease off the parts of the frame I can get to, do I need to get the traces of old black paint off before I apply the POR-15?

Who has used this stuff and how did it work out?

JL Bryan

JL; About three years ago I treated my MGB's spring pans with Por-15. Since then it's been driven in rain and "rode hard and put away wet" as us old cowboys used to say. Anyway, the spring pan still looks as shiny and bright as it did the day I finished painting it. In my humble opinion, it's great stuff. Anybody else?

I have been a Por-15 user for about 5 years and three differnt resto projects.
(I sound like I'm at an AA meeting...)
Actually, I think the stuff is the best!
I've tried Eastwoods rust encapsulator paint, but was not pleased with results, (seems brake parts cleaner takes it off.

A couple of tips when using;
(1) Only pour out a small amount, into a disposable container, at a time when doing a job. Make sure rim of can is clean before putting lid back on. Use a piece of saran wrap between lid and can.
(2) Have as many parts prepped and ready for painting. you will be throwing brush away after use.
(3) Wear disposable gloves. for that matter, make sure you have work clothes on. this stuff does not come off! ANYTHING! If you get it on your skin it has to wear off. My wife got out of her car in the garage and promptly backed into a wet part hanging from rafter. Next day I was at the mall buying a new coat.
I now have a 'Por-15 Warning' sign that I hang on her side whenever I paint.
(4) Becareful not to paint the inside of holes on parts where bolts pass thru. This stuff is thick. do not paint threads.
(5) Part must be completely dry before coating. Use a hair dryer or better yet, run a small hand held propane torch over part. You'd be suprised how much moisture is still on metal when it looks dry.
(6) It really adheres well to rusty parts, but they must be grease free. Degrease parts and treat with metal prep before before coating. you don't need to get part "down to bare metal".
(7) Use two coats. It really looks good and you usually miss a spot on the first coat anyway. When dry, this stuff is as hard as a rock!

You can top coat part with color of your choice. follow their recomendations.
Hope this helps
Dennis Silance

I would add to Dennis' note that POR-15 is not UV resistent so if you're going to apply it to parts that are constantly subjected to sunlight (I would not consider chassis parts routinely exposed to damaging UV), you'll need to top coat.
Doug Baker

John, Dennis said it all except use this stuff in a very well ventilated area (outside) or use a respirator. There are some nasty compounds in there,
but it is the best rust paint there is anywhere.
Christopher T.

Where do you get it?
Joe Justice
joe justice

Joe, or check your local auto paint supply shop. Our shop just carries gloss black and Metal-Ready, which is a metal etch that leaves a zinc phosphate coating and is re-usable.

Por 15 offers a whole line of products, i.e, engine enamels, high temp paints (great for manifolds), fuel tank sealers, top coats, etc.
They ship quick, too.
Stuffs not cheap, but it works.
Dennis Silance

I plan on using it just on the frame members and the floor boards. On the underside, it will not be exposed to UV ever. The floorboards will be covered on the top by carpet, so it should be ok.

On the floorboards, how do I create a break between the new POR-15 and the old paint? I only want to do the part in front of the seats.

Thanks, John
JL Bryan


I did my floorboards about two years ago. I'd wire brush any serious rust, but there is no problem painting right over it provided you follow all the steps.

Dennis is absolutely correct. The stuff sticks to anything and WILL NOT come off. Wear gloves and plan on throwing your clothes away if you make a mistake. I put crappy bolts in the threads so I wouldn't medd them up. Would suggest you do the same.

Creating a break shouldn't be a problem, but it's under the carpet. Would anyone notice?

Don from Jersey

Don from Jersey

My paint guy has suggested the stuff that is now used to line pickup beds be applied to the floor pans INSIDE. He says that rust and corrosion begins inside under the carpet and if protected well there, are not apt to rust...ever! He demonstated the application on a vintage Porsche he had restored for a customer. The stuff was incredibly hard and seemed to provide an impentrable shield to the metal and was top coated with car color. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Doug Baker

Doug brings up a good point. Most of these cars we're talking about are convertibles.
Eventually we get caught in a rain storm with the top down. Even tho there are weep holes for drainage, carpet and padding act as a sponge taking forever to dry.
Water...metal...heat...oh boy! we all know what comes next.
That's one thing we should remember with any of these coatings on something that already has begun to rust. If you can completely seal it from future air and moisture, you can starve it and virtually stop its spread(altho, that's debateable. "rust never sleeps"). I believe you slow it down, anyway.

In any case, coating both sides of a floor makes all the sense in the world.
A bed liner product, such as Rhino Bed Liner uses, is as hard as a rock so I'm sure it would do the trick. I don't know about the cost and I'd imagine they're be a lot a taping off if your cars interior was still in place.
For my money, two coats of Por-15 would and bottom.
Dennis Silance

My tub will be going to the paint shop soon. I'm considering having the entire underside rhino coated. It will be stripped to the bare metal and ALL rust (what little there car has benefited from the LBC malady of 'marking its spot'...from the scuttle aft, it has been liberally coated with engine oil all its life and thus has suffered little corrosion)will be removed, metal replaced and corrosion inhibitor (paint or otherwise) applied. I'll let y'all know how it goes, cost etc. in probably a few months time.
Doug Baker

This thread was discussed between 24/08/2005 and 25/08/2005

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