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Triumph TR6 - Best way to clean elec connections

Hey, Bill and Jim, and anyone else who knows. What is the best way to clean the male elec connections? I used a wire brush on a dremel and it seemed to work well-it got rid of the surface corrosion and then I put them back together with dielectric. Is there some preferred method of cleaning these things? And, at Bill's suggestion, I started under the hood and just began pulling any electrical connections apart and cleaning them up. Thats how I discovered the missing PDWA electric plug. I want to get under the dash, but I don't feel like laying upside down or like taking the dash all apart. Maybe when it cools off down here!

I started out using a small wire brush, but soon graduated to plastic scrub pads. I also used a solution of baking soda and water. This seemed to clean them very well. My best investment was new connectors. I bought a large selection of the 2 and 4 wire items and replaced every one that I came across. I did the Fiesta alternator replacement in an effort to brighten my head lights, but it didn't help. My TR-6 has been electrical problem free for over 2 years and my wife never missed the scrubbing pads or the baking soda.
Joe Justice
Joe Justice

I like CRC contact cleaner which is also good for shooting into switches. It works well and doesn't harm most plastics but may take the lettering off some so be careful.

For tough corrosion I use small pieces of Scothcbrite pads w/ or w/o contact cleaner, then everything gets a good coating of dielectric paste.

Contact cleaning is a great time killer when you have some time to kill. but not enough for a larger task...or when you just don't feel like working in the yard.

I have to agree with Wayne. CRC is a great product.
(I'm not going to mention that I still have a supply of Carbon Tet on accounta it's illegal to use).
I like using steel wool on the male contacts and then I use a piece of emery cloth on the female.
Dielectric is imperative. I've even (forgive me for I have sinned) done some soldering on accounta I KNOW it works.
Know what? I ran additional grounds to my headlights (halogen replacement sealbeams, $4.90 each at my parts house) and with a battery that BARELY fits in the 'spot' and a Bosch from the 78-80 Fiesta I'm a WELL lit, able to see, happy boy.
I'm usually in the office by 05:30 and when I drive the TR6 I like to see on the way to work.
Bright lights, dark road. Good combination.

Jim Deatsch

All connector/ground areas are tin steel/cast iron or copper.

Male ends best is to brighten with fine abrasive and immediately coat with dielectric after cleaning. Originally they had a fine coat of anti corode material that now is more of an insulator.

Female bullets I use a just fit drill in my cordless with the torque set low. Give it a spin and fill dielectric. Then close it up a bit. I use an expensive adjustable crimper from the the old days of coaxial networks but the round area at the base of adjustable pliers works fine if carefull.

Cast and steel use whatever gets it bright. If there is corrosion pitting grind it out. Even with dielectric moisture corrosion will return if still pitted. Then coat all sides and cover with big D.

Heres the big problem on some connectors. Uncovered copper patinas nice on expensive roofs and art. Copper corrosian. Sucks as a conducter. If you check the wire end of the connector and see green. You are best to replace. Some of the wire in exposed areas of cars depending on the cover actualy patinas back for quite a bit under the casing. You have to get all wires at both connection points clean. Otherwise you have a 14 gauge thats down to a 24? The patina inside the case is not too bad as long as all individual wires at each end are corosion free to each other

If you have that go with Jim and mechanical then acid clean and solder a new connector on.

Hey Jim
My routine for all new connectors to green wire is a sin. Clean wire/place weatherproof heatshrink "glue inside" over wire. I have a small jar of wire cleaner its an acid of some sort I dip in and then water dip. Blast off with air. Dip in solder paste. Place connector on it. Crimp with ratchet type not the 20 buck type crimpers to size. Solder after fitted. Fit the heatshrink over and hit with the heat gun.

The sin part comes in having a pint and shooting the bull with the guys all day while you do it and telling the wife you busted your butt working on the car. And it works the best.

I'm a bit of a pioneer history buff. This little gem I thought apropriate. Its from a manual for new homesteaders how to set up there farms. Circa 1890

"The shop used to maintain your equipment should not be too close to the main dwelling for noise to bother your spouse and family. The fact that they will not easily bother you will also be a blessing"

Little rented garage hobby shop 5 miles from home :)

Bill Brayford

I LOVE it Bill. Can I use it? <G>

I'll stop up. A pint sounds good right about now.

Jim Deatsch

This thread was discussed between 15/09/2003 and 17/09/2003

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