MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - Brake Failure Light

On my '76 TR6, I expect the oil light and brake failure light to glow until pressure builds and I loose ground from the oil pressure switch. I was lead to believe they all worked like that.

I've never been able to get my brake failure light to glow, and now that I compare the wiring diagram for '76 against earlier years, I don't think it does glows unless my handbrake is on or the the brake failure switch gives me ground (ie brake failure).

Can anyone confirm that the '76 is in fact different and the brake failure light does not glow on ignition?

tks
Mati
Mati Holland

Hi Mati

Never worked on a 76 wiring but I have never seen any car that did not glow the brake and oil failure if there?

You have that bulb test relay item and EGR service counter? Plus the anti run on valve as well.

The way the circuit works is highs or 12 volts all over. Oil pressure low prior to start you have a ground? Both bulbs should glow on the older ones. I gather your oil lamp glows?

You have a bulb test relay. I think that is what should ground that bulb prior to starting by the looks of it to test bulb. Do your Brake and egr glow when the ignition is turning? I read that relays C2 takes C3 and C4 to ground starter turning only. May be momentary if your car only turns once.
From the wiring dpo may have changed things so the egr counter lamp was not glowing all the time?

Bill
Bill Brayford

Hi Bill!

Leave it to you again. I was testing last night and I've always had one stray wire a the Bulb Test Relay. I took a calculated guess and hooked it up, voila, the Brake Failure Bulb glowed for the very first time. I didn't start the car, so I hope with oil pressure it will go out.

Can you tell me, the EGR light, doesn't it go out after the counter has been re-set? I was going to ask if anyone knew how to do that. I recal seeing something about a special key.

So now I'm down to just my wiper motor. It's blowing the fuse and I think it's seized. All of the wiring is exactly correct and it still pops the fuse.
Mati

Hi Mati

What was the stray wire color?

I assume you have Dans wiring info?

Most of the early environmental stuff was designed to apease the EPA rather than be functional. The light and counter is somewhat functional since the EGR carbons up and screws up the entire operation. So if your still running it, remove and clean EGR base once a season.

I don't have any info on the counter reset maybe Dan has? Likely a simple AND device considering the time. Probably a hole that shorts the counter back to Zero? Strictly cosmetic now? Get rid of it would be my thinking.

On the wipers have you checked for any binds etc. in the mechanicals? If it can't move it will blow fuse.

For the wiper motor try cleaning up ground point and connections. Then test with the green wire only clipped from the fused source. That should be full power and bypass any switch or wire problems? If the motor turns its probably OK. After that it would be easier to refer to Dans book to troubleshoot or ask specific questions. Like I do this and it did that. Why?? Hard to nail down without a lot of info.

Bill








Bill Brayford

Mati,

The reset is a little silver button on the side, with two small holes in it. Use a pair of circlip pliers to rotate it to reset.

For windshield wiper problems, see:

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/wiper-motor/

For correct wiring diagrams for your car, see:

http://www.britishv8.org/tech/TR250-6.pdf

This is the only source for a CORRECT wiring diagram for a '76 model.
Dan Masters

There you go Mati

Thanks Dan..:)
Bill Brayford

On my TR3A, the wiring to check the brake lights is really simple. THERE IS NONE !

My solution to check for tail light failure is to drive into the garage at night and just after I close the garage door (motor driven), I tap the brakes while I'm looking in the mirror. If one is out, I can see.

The second choice is to drive through a shopping center at night (a shortcut on my way home every time) and I tap the brakes while I'm looking for the reflection of the tail lights in a huge store window. As you approach, you can also check the headlights too.

The third way even works in the day-light. When I tap the brakes to slow down, I check the ammmeter on the dash and if I see it go minus, I know my brake lights (well at least one of them) work.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott


fyi

Thanks Dan & Bill!

I was reading the vtr instructions when you posted the reply, it's and excellent article and very helpful. However, my problem was unique.

I opened up the cover on the wiper motor and suddenly the motor was working, except that it wouldn't park, it just wouldn't stop. The mechanism was working smoothly, and now the gears were spinning freely. As it turns out, I found a loose c-clip under the gear. With lid on, it seized the gear and blew the fuse. With the lid off, the gear rode too high to contact the parking switch. Problem solved. DPO(s)!!!

I also found the EGR re-set and it cancelled the light. Bill, the EGR was out when I bought the car. The stray wire was black and bridged to another spade. It's probably on the wiring diagram, but I wasn't 100% which connection to make on the bulb test relay. Hooked up, the Brake Failure light works again.

That's it..mission accomplished..the harness is done and spring arrives this weekend.
mati

This thread was discussed between 08/03/2004 and 19/03/2004

Triumph TR6 index