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Triumph TR6 - Brake MC leak?

I have a leak between my MC and Servo. It does not look like there is anything leaking into the car, just down from the connection between the two, and more from the tire side nut, than the battery side. Any thoughts?
Ignatius Rigor

Ignatius
Thanx for starting the new thread.. It really is not important the side it leaks from but is is important (unfortunately) that it is leaking. Syphone out as much as possible the fluid in the MC..disconnect 2 lines to the PDWA. Remove both nuts securing MC to SERVO..hold on to it...it will fall off into your hands. You will either need a new MC seal kit or have to have the MC rebuilt...corrosion/pitting. (Screws holding reservoir to MC body are posidrive not philips). Ignatius go online and do a saearch for THE ROADSTER FACTORY. There you will be able to order the 2 volume spare parts catalogues. A handy reference to see the exploded view of parts on the car..and to order if u wish.
Rick Crawford

You will also need to get a 1/2" hex socket to remove the tipping valve. It is put in very tight and need to remove it to get all the components out.


VERY IMPORTANT: BUY ONLY LUCAS REPAIR KIT

( the repair kits made by PBR in Australia are crap and don't fit properly and the quality control leaves a lot to be desired) Lucas will cost you more but it is worth it.

Like Rick said the the 2 volume parts catalogue are invaluable and helpful in any rebuilding scenario...great explode diagrams.
steven

The above advice from regarding the 1/2" hex socket from Steven is invaluable. I recently rebuilt mine and could not find this socket. I went to Lowes and bought a nut coupling (found in specialty fastners) for 78 cents and proceeded.
Thanks,
Ashley
Ashley

It is funny how the brain light goes off when you hear something and remember..oh ya! I remember that one. I have similar cure like Ashley. Go to any old hardware store and get a 1/2" (wrench size) bolt about 3" long and bend it 90 degrees so u end up with "L" shaped tool. Slap on the vise grips and turn. You might even have one in the "spares" drawer. I never thought of your suggestion Ashley. Try a little WD 40 to help in removal.
Rick
Rick Crawford

I looked also at using a bolt but found the hex socket at a tool and machinery place. At $8 it was worth it. For those that live in the Toronto Area the store is called Atlas Tools and is on Queen st West. It is a very hard size to find and uses a 1/2" drive

Also on the subject of Atlas I also found a very thin 1" open ended spanner that I was able to bend at an angle. This is the cure to remove the solenoid from the J-type o/d. The wrench is made by Delta for one of their Radial arm saws. I can't tell you how hard it was also to find this as common 1" open end wrenches are too thick.
steven

Ignatius,
first, tighten any fitting between the leak, wipe
everything clean , apply the brake a few times and check
for leaks, this may fix the problem. If there is still a leak then follow above advice
Christopher Trace

This thread was discussed between 18/03/2002 and 21/03/2002

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