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Triumph TR6 - brakelight/headlight issue

If I can bother you guys to come out of your garages where you are undoubtedly passing the cold weather time by fixing things, I have a question. My brake lights work just fine when the headlights aren't on. With the headlights on, somebody told me at a stoplight that I had no brake lights. At home, I checked the brake lights with a long pole--there is virtually no increase in brightness when the headlights are on. Is this a short or bad bulbs or just TR 6's?

The high today in South Florida barely got into the 70's! We're breaking out the long undies tonight in anticipation of lows in the 50's! Damn, this cold weather is hard on us!

John
JL Bryan

I think that NO ONE should answer John's questions until he stops with the abuse.

That's my final honk on this matter!

Jim (goosed and loving it)
Jim Deatsch

The high today here was about 28f. When this happens to me it is always a problem with the fuse box in my 72 it is the bottom fuse in the box and at times the contact is not very good. Check this fuse when the problem jumps up again I find that the contacts on either side of my box are just not clean enough to provide power. A new fuse box is in the trunk to be installed on Tuesday. When it has happened to me if I twist the fuse slightly I get power back. I just realized I am refering to running lights and you are talking about brakes make sure your bulbs are the right type for this area dual filament etc. Hey Jim look at it this way from May 1st thru Oct 30th the only time you can drive a six in fla. is well after dark if you can dodge the bugs.
Regards, Keith
Damnm Kiwi wine
Keith Dixon

John...exactly when is hurricane season in Florida? Is this problem occuring when your car is above or below the water line?
Mati Holland

Possibles bad ground at the sockets John when the lights are on it prevents the brake filament from using that path to ground.
Second if your sockets are real bad you may not have a true brake filament lighting IE the 2 contacts at the bottom of socket are crossed. Step on the brakes you get all turn on lights you get all. Lights are on nothing changes filament lights for each function.

Pull socket and observe what filament lights low one usualy running lights, high one brakes.

As for your method of actuation I gather your still a young buck? May have tried that in my younger years but of course as everyone knows we do get a bit shorter as we age. High blood pressure does compensate to help bench pressing the diff..

As for myself I never tried that. I don't give weather reports though so I can usually find a friend to push the pedal. turn my crank etc. Lonely down there eh John?

By the way John you might be bragging a bit. Whole cars only bout 14' long?

Old cold Bill
Bill Brayford

Sounds like a bad ground that you've yet to find. The lights just "don't get brighter"; there is a second circut/filament in the bulb. With the lights out the brakes are grounding through the tail light circut. With them on the voltage probably prevents ground.

Go through the tail light wiring again and you'll probably find it. Be sure and bundle up - it's COLD down there.

Brent
Brent B

Thanks for the help. I finally got Dan Master's book, and it is a great resource, but it doesn't mention this particular issue. The sockets probably are bad, from the sounds of it, and at least I kind of know how to check them now. I was going to get into it yesterday, but other stuff came up.

Jim, don't be bitter, it's unbecoming. You get to be smug from June to October when we're waking up to day after day of 90 degree weather and 95% humidity and you're driving around with top down. And the hurricane season pretty much coincides with that, although most of them are late summer and early fall.

And the pole was a not yet installed curtain rod,Bill! While my goose isn't yet totally cooked, I am in my mid 50's and couldn't figure out any other way to hit the brakes while standing behind the car. My wife was busy and the one kid still at home was doing something.

John.
JL Bryan

John,

Take a look at chapter 3, particularly the section called "wierd things." A situation very similar to yours is described there.

As others have said, it is most likely a ground problem.
Dan Masters

I still, unlike many others, haven't bought my copy of Dan's book.

Hey Dan, blatant commercial advertisment please?

Thanks,

Jim
Jim Deatsch



Jim,

See: http://members.aol.com/danmas6/
Dan Masters

Jim, Dan's book is great. It is very understandable, but I just received it and haven't really had a chance to read it. I am now going to check Chapter 3! John.
JL Bryan

Thanks Dan.

And you John for reminding me of it. I keep meaning to order. Now I shall. <G>

Jim
Jim Deatsch

Buy Dan's book. You will not regret it.
Dick Porter

Hi John. I had this problem with my 1974 TR6 when I first got it. Check the 2001 archives for a thread entitled "problem brake light". Bottom line is that the following site shows in great detail what you need to do to fix it. This fix worked well for me. Good luck.

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Electrical/TR6Sockets/TR6Sockets.htm
John Burke

Thanks, John from NY. I printed the thread and the article. It sounds like the identical thing! John
JL Bryan

Hey JOhn from NY--did you use flux or just resin core solder? I have never used flux on anything else when I soldered it. John
JL Bryan

Hi John. Sorry I am so delayed in responding, but I haven't been on the website for a few days. When I did this fix a couple of years ago I followed the instructions closely so I used a little flux;it does help to make a good connection. Like it says in the instructions, though, be careful to not overheat the socket such that the plastic melts. Good luck.
John Burke

This thread was discussed between 08/02/2004 and 20/02/2004

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