Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.
Triumph TR6 - Broken studs - exhaust down pipe
|Well I picked up where the previous owner left off and proceeded to break off the remaining three studs. So now I have to drill out all four and the angle doesn't look so good on some of them. Has anyone had much success removing these studs, any tips would be appreciated. I'll be installing a SS system from Rimmer Bros.|
I gather your going to try to do on the car?
If you have heat oxy/acet theres often enough left to get a vice grip on. Heat flange red and turn out. Since you didn't use the heat in the first place you don't?
Your only option I can see is beg someone over with a torch set who knows what there up to. Your carbs are there? Heat and remove. Or take off. Take to muffler shop and have them do it.
If theres no way to heat them out
Remove the manifold and grind studs flat. Start soaking with gunk penetrating. Find center of stud? And drill progresive larger holes. When your close to thread size use an easy out to remove.
|Pretty much what Bill has already said. My preference is to perform this task off the car on the bench. The application of heat that is typically required in a case like this is much more than I want around a set of carbs. Besides, with it off the car, things will be much easier to get to for the twisting/grinding/drilling/etc required to achieve Mission Success.|
Once the broken studs are out and everything is all cleaned up, install all of these bits with a nice slathering of anti-sieze. You'll be glad you did if you ever take this apart again or if the car is sold, the new owner will have less call to refer to you as the DPO.
Don't know about your side of the pond, but manifolds appear occasionally on Ebay over here and don't sell for a great deal of money, might be worth looking if all else fails.
|I saw an old blacksmith do one once. He welded a nut on the stub and it turned right out (well, a little wiggling) while still hot. Very cool. Might even work if it's broken off flush. Take the manifold off, for sure, unless you've got a real good muffler friend that's confident he (or she) can do it.|
|Thanks for your input gentlemen! I'm thinking about taking off the manifold so it will be easier to work on since this will take a while. I should know this, but is the manifold aluminum or cast iron? I don't have access to oxy/acet but I thought I'd heat it with propane or MAPP gas. I doubt the latter gases would do any damage but I don't want to hurt it if it's alum. Am I going to have the same trouble and break off bolts on the exhaust manifold? I did use PB Blaster prior to removal. Also, any recommendations as to painting it while I have it off? Thanks for your assistance.|
|The exhaust manifold is cast iron. MAPP should get it hot enough.|
For finishing the manifold, get it clean, clean, clean. Wire brush and blast off the corrosion, followed by some nice solvent cleaning. Once the solvent has flashed off, use something specifically for manifolds. Eastwood, Caswell and such sell products for finishing cast iron manifolds. These products are generally available in three colors, black, a silvery grey and a grey grey. I like that last one as it reasonably approximates the color of cast iron. You apply this stuff with a spray gun or foam brush. My preference is the foam brush. Spraying of this stuff just seems like something to do if you want a good deal of it to wind up someplace other than the manifold.
|Just wanted to share my experience in trying to remove the broken studs. First off, I did remove the exhaust manifold only after removing the intake manifolds, no problems except for anti-freeze on the garage floor (had to keep the cats out of the garage for a while). |
Next, removing the studs that were sheared off flush with the flange. I practiced trying to extract one of the bolts after I heated it with propane but didn't have any luck. The extractor felt like it was going to snap as I tried to turn it, so I knew that wasn't going to work. Before I tried MAPP gas I consulted my LBC mechanic, he said if you get them glowing red hot they will come out. Well 1/2 hr of labor and they were off.
As far as finishing off the exhaust manifold, the mechanic didn't think some of the products would last very long. Sorry Steve, I hope you don't think I ignored everything you said. To tell you the truth if I wasn't in such hurry to put on the exhaust I would have purchased the products you suggested.
Thanks again for everyone's input.
|Mark--I have had excellent results with the high temp manifold paint sold in a pint can by Eastwood. The trick to success is to apply numerous coats (I used up the whole can on my manifold since the paint has a limited shelf life once opened). My manifold still looks great.|
|Same here, used the stuff from Eastwood. They are buying it packaged for them from some coatings manufacturer and I can't help but think that the others are selling the same or incredibly similar product, just a different label. I know a couple of other people that used it too and their manifolds still look good.|
|I have a maniford you can have its off my 72 I just put headers on it .all you have to do is pay for shipping .|
|I appreciate the offer Jeff, but the exhaust is altogether now. Considering the success stories, I regret I didn't try to paint the manifold when I had it apart. I'll just add that to my list of winter projects.|
Following Jeff's kind offer, I have a muffler that someone could have, just pay the shipping costs. I don't know how old it is since I bought the car two years ago. Overall it looks ok, at least the two inlet stubs are in good shape and can still be attached. I apologize in advance if this isn't the proper place to advertise this.
This thread was discussed between 29/07/2004 and 22/08/2004
Triumph TR6 index
This thread is from the archives. Join the live Triumph TR6 BBS now