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Triumph TR6 - Clutch master bleeding
|I am trying to bleed the clutch system. The slave is new as is both lines from the master cylinder. The master seemed fine so I rebuilt it. When I open the bleed valve on the slave, the fluid will run thru and empty the master without depressing the pedal. Am I correct in saying that the rebuild on the master was unsuccesful?|
|I don't think so John.|
I would expect the master to bleed empty if you leave the slave bleed valve open.
To finish bleeding it, let the flow come out the slave and when it does shut the bleed valve. Have someone depress the clutch as you open the bleed valve. Have them hold the clutch in while you close the valve. Then have them release the clutch.
Do this a couple of times. The flow from the bleed valve should only be brake fluid and no air. Once that happens you are done. Some people use a hose on the end of the bleed valve and discharge it into a jar with fluid in it so they can be sure there is no air. I don't do this personally since I have had success without it.
Make sure the master is always topped up. Do not let it bleed dry.
|Michael- Not that I disagree with you, but, John go to the best parts store and get some speed bleeders. Will help you do it all by yourself. After you have it done drive a couple of days and do it again just to make sure the air is out. If you use silicon it is a little harder to get the air out.Those last little bubble rascals are buggers.|
| I just tried this method after reading responses. However, the system continues to passfluid without removing all the air. I have gone thru far to much fluid. I remember doing this many years ago on another TR6 with success. I am thinking that the master must be allowing some air but I don't see any leaks. Does anybody know any other way to check quality of the master even if I remove it??|
|John, how's your booster? Did you replace or overhaul it also? Might have air bleeding by your diaphram if it's old or has not been checked. Not sure how that thing really works. Have to check the technical references. I guess you could remove the master cylinder, plug the holes with appropriate bolts and do a mechanical leak test (hydraulic or pneumatic) on the connections, seals etc.|
I had similar problem a while back after re and re the engine for a rebuild. I found there was air getting into the system via the flex hose.
I just went back to my thread in 2005 but did not post back as to what solved the problem...unfortunately. I do recall it was the flex line(the red hose) was actually spinning at one of the ends...I could turn the threaded end and the hose would not turn. Air was getting by the pressure fit slide on area of the hose onto the connection piece.
I think it was the end that connects to part #41.
It took a long time to discover this and to say the least a PITB as I even pulled the tranny back out thinking the problem was internal. I only discovered the problem while putting the hose back on an seeing the slave cylinder spinning on the hose.
Hope this helps.
|Doug, I am referring to the clutch master, not the brake master, so I don't believe the booster would be an issue.|
Rick, The flex line, metal line and slave are new. However, the union between the flex and metal is not. Perhaps it is this union that is sucking air. It does not leak fluid. I wouldn't think this would suck air but have you had this happen?
Mine did not leak DOT5 either. Thus the problem diagnosing it. Try to see if you can turn on of the ends of the flex line without the pipe turning. This is not new to the RED flex line brand.
My leak was one of the ends of the flex line turning. The union you talk about, #41 in my image, could be a problem. It is a compression type of fitting and usually compression fittings are a "one time deal".
Worth a look at since it is probably very inexpensive.
|Thanks everybody, I determined the likely culprit was the Master as it was acting unusual. I put a new one in and everything works fine.|
Now all we need is summer!
This thread was discussed between 25/11/2007 and 03/12/2007
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