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Triumph TR6 - compression
guys, I've installed the payen head gasket and I just checked cyl.no.1 and I have lots of compression. I am so happy that I had to stop and let you all know. Now I am going to check all the remaining cylinders for compression. Lesson learned. Never again cheap head gaskets, only the best.This little thing has cost me a needless week of anguish and head scratching. I'll be posting again today. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
Great news. Hope all is resolved. |
Michael Petryschuk |
Finally, I started the engine and it did not take long. Run it for 20min at 2500RPM to bed in the cam. and shut it off. In the meantime I took it around the block and it's much more responsive,throaty sounding even with the standard carbs and much faster. What I noticed however is when the oil got hot the oil pressure dropped, no doubt because of the rocker feed. I will add a washer or two to the pressure relief valve spring and increase it. Now what's left is to adjust the timing, the carbs and figure out the ignition curve. Thank you guys for all your support and comments. Where I work is a small home garage and with all the misfortunes I had to face, I don't think I would have persevered without your encouragement and support. Thanks again. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
What's it drop to. That is normal |
Don Kelly |
3kg/cm2 at 3000RPM. It is lower than before, but now I have extra lubrication on the rollers which I need.Packing the spring will increase it. Tomorrow I'll take care of the ignition curve and if I have time I'll tune the carbs. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
What's that in English? Did the Google.Now If I am correct that is about 42 1/2. At 3 grand that is a little low. I can't remember. Is the bottom end new too? |
Don Kelly |
Yes the bottom end is relatively new. I dread to think that I have cracked the oil pump when the oil mixed with water as water is not compressible and it usually cracks the pump. I'll know tomorrow when I shim it up. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
I don't think you would have cracked the oil pump with water in the oil unless you were running it hot. The pump should pump water or oil but water doesn't lunbricate the pump and wears it faster and if running hot the water tends to cavitate the pump. I don't think this would happen since I believe you never really got the engine running and were only cranking it. Are you running with 20W 50? |
Michael Petryschuk |
Yes Michael you are right. It was just a case of packing a small washer into the spring and now the oil pressure is back to normal and a little higher. Right now I'm going to set the carbs and timing. I also have to investigate an oil leak from the front of the engine. The oil seal is brand new. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
Is the leak up mid block or down low? |
Don Kelly |
It seems that it is low down, but I haven't really investigated. I tried to adjust the timing but it seems that the lowest it can go is 23degrees at 1000RPM. I made a little chart of the timing at different engine speeds. here it is. 1000 RPM 23degrees BTDC. 2000 RPM 30 BTDC 2500 RPM 34 BTDC, All in. 46 Degrees. The interesting thing is that the engine does not ping, only in the all in situation, or if you load the engine like starting in second gear from rest. I think I put the dizzy drive a couple of teeth out. I'll correct it and see. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
The leak is probably the front sealing block. They make a nice steel one that is a good upgrade from stock Over time the thing strips out |
Don Kelly |
It wasn't leaking before. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
That's true , you didn't rebuild the whole motor. I forgot |
Don Kelly |
Good to hear that you have compression now, time to chase down the leak and sort out the distributor timing. |
SteveP1 |
Hi all, today I went to a friend of mine who is a car electrician by profession and he wired up my radiator fans so they start automatically and now they start beautifully on their own. While I was driving out from the shop I started slowly in first gear and then I gave it stick and the back wheels started spinning. I almost lost it as I didn't expect this to happen. I didn't believe what I was experiencing after driving this same painfully slow car for the last two years. What I noticed though is that the power tails of at about 4000RPM no doubt because the 175 strombergs are not up to the job at high RPM. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
Today I set up the timing curve of my dizzy. It seems that I got it spot on, on the first attempt. Here is the curve. 1000 RPM, 15 BTDC 1500 '' 17 '' 2000 '' 19 '' 2500 '' 25 '' 3000 RPM, 35 BTDC. The engine will idle at 1100 RPM and it will not ping under load at any RPM. The only misfortune that befell me today was that the cooling fan fuse shorted without my noticing it and when I did the gauge was in the red. I replaced the fuse and the temperature dropped right back to normal. Next thing on the agenda is tracing this irritating oil leak. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
Kypros You might want to investigate that fuse failure. Fuses shouldn't fail unless there is a reason. You don't want that to be a recurring problem. Good luck with the oil leak. I did my engine 7 years ago and am still trying to stop oil leaks. |
Michael Petryschuk |
Hi Michael and all, I took the car back to the friend who made the wiring and connection of the fans and really he couldn't figure out why it blew the fuse. He replaced it and everything seems o.k now. The oil leak i traced to the bottom retaining screw of the timing cover. I tightened it a little more , but still the leak is there. I dread to go to all the drill of taking it out and replacing the gasket. Any ideas anyone? |
Kypros Christodoulides |
I can't remember that far back. Does that screw go to an oil galley? |
Don Kelly |
Don, I believe that it does. Kypros, maybe removing the screw, using some locktite might stop the leak. Did you put the timing case cover on dry or with some goop around the bolts and the edges? db |
Doug Baker |
I put the cover on with a lot of gasket sealer but thinking back, I bought from e-bay a discount gasket set and I used that one. Every gasket has failed so far from this set, except the water pump one. Guys while I was driving tonight to get home from a friends house after a few drinks, I gave it stick and it really delivered. Please don't ask me to go to the same ordeal again. We all painfully know what is involved to take the timing chain cover off and I aint a young guy no more. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
I guess the ol adage You get what you pay for BUMMER |
Don Kelly |
I would try Doug's route. Remove the offending screw and put some oil resistant silicone sealant or locktite in and tighten the screw. If that doesn't work then it becomes new gasket time or live with it. Not a pretty choice. |
Michael Petryschuk |
yes Michael this is the route I am taking. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
The leak has miraculously fixed itself somehow. Today I am fitting an oil catch tank on the rocker cover outlet. For all to know, I didn't take the beaten track and bought an after market item, but I got a stainless water bottle from a bicycle shop and I converted the top to fit the hose. I think it will work beautifully. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
Hi Kypros Since the oil leak stopped have you checked your oil level. Colin |
C J Norcott |
yes as a matter of fact I check the oil level every time I fire her up and yesterday when I did, it was at the maximum, so I checked under the car and it was not leaking. |
Kypros Christodoulides |
This thread was discussed between 12/05/2012 and 21/05/2012
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