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Triumph TR6 - Dash lights rheostat replacement

Hello there everyone. Just discovered this site whilst fumbling on the internet. Great site with good ideas and problem solving.
Here's my question. I am the owner of a 75 TR6 (original British manufacture) and the dashboard dials do not light up very well. I suspect that I have a faulty rheostat because it affects all the dials not just one or two (so faulty bulbs would not seem to be problem).
How easy is it to replace this item, and what is the best way to go about it.
Thanks in advance.
Bob Bendall

Before you scuttle the rheostat, check your gauge lamps. Mine had a severe case of "tungsten blackening" on the inside that reduced the illumination considerably.

If you do decide to mess with the rheostat, I'd simply bypass it entirely. When was the last time anyone deliberatlely dimmed gauge illumination using it anyway?

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Thanks Rick, I'll obviously check that out - but if I do decide to replace the rheostat, what is the best way to do this. I have only owned the car for a year and have not had cause to get behind the dashboard so far. So any tips on the best way to approach this would be appreciated.
Bob B.
Bob Bendall

It's not hard to replace from behind the dash, from my recollection, but new ones were around US$70. So it got by-passed, and full brightness is fine for me.

Brent
Brent B

Cheers Brent. That's given me something to work on over the weekend - if I can get away from the decorating? (sorry about the language, ha ha)
Bob B
Bob Bendall

Bob
Welcome Bob. You will find this site very usefull and any question(s) gets answered.
The first thing you want to do is register with this BBS so u have access to the "Archives" section as link to above. Years and years of reading for u:)

This little criter u refer to has been discussed many times before and it is sorta a bug to me ( now there is an understatement:). The rheostat is probably not faulty...it is simply that the gauge illumination on TR6s is....well...shall I say not very bright. If u can see the gauge illumination actually decreasing then it is probably working. If they do not, then it is time for the following:(even if it does work I STRONLY suggest the following)
You do not want to replace it...you want to by-pass it!!
REASON why I say this: there have been horror stories of TR6s burning under the dash because of the rheostat over heating and causing an electrical fire.
This is simple to do but not easily accessed though. On one side of the rheostat is a Red wire and the other side will be 3 Red/White wires ( maybe only one R/W and where joined together before connecting to the rheostat). Bottom line connect what is one one side with what is on the other side. I suggest a solder join as this is best type of join...then heat shrink the connections. Your best bet for access is to reach up (good luck) behind the dash and you will feel 2 small thumb screw wheels holding the gauge in place. Remove the thumb screws and the guauge can be pushed out of the dash from behind. As you push the gauge out you will also have fall behind the dash 2 "wings" that go over the threaded post that the 2 thumb screws tighten agains to hold the gauge to the dash. Sorry that was best explanation I could come up with. Now you can get at the wires. Reverse procedure to reinstall.
You will probably not see any change in brightness of the guages but you WILL have eliminated a potential disasterious situation.
Good luck and have fun.

Rick C
1971 TR6 (original British manufacture:)
Rick Crawford

I too went for the by-pass. I reached it with a tool by removing the ash-tray. Try it. Good Luck

Eric
Eric de Lange

Rick C and Eric
Thanks for your additional tips. I certainly have a lot of information to go on now. I think its great how the TR links us all globally. From my original humble question I have had input from the States, Canada and The Netherlands. Amazing
Bob B
Bob Bendall

All right! Another "BB"!

BB
Brent B

Hi Bob and welcome,

Well Roger and the others guys from Australia are fighting the heat wave or you would have heard from them.

Angel and Peter are enjoying the Caribean and Pacific South Sea breezes on there respective Islands no time for questions till huricane season. Or something breaks?

The rest of us in the Northern hemisphere are just trying to keep our butts above the snow level. Lots of time for thinking and the internet.

There is of course the secret lucas based inner circle haunting JL alias John the weathermans "hey its 80 and too hot here today" tail lights. Stick around for a bit and you will join as well..:)

Another BB

Bill Brayford

Just to set the record straight Bill, we are bracing for a big storm, with,yes,snow on the mountains and thunder and HAIL at sea level, flood warnings and 'damaging' winds.So enjoy your peaceful white landscape.
On rheostats, eliminated mine and did not change dash brightness (halogen bulbs from LBC!!when I change out the dash) but left a nice hole that looks about right for a cig lighter socket so you can charge whatever. Even the Geese are staying away from here at this time. Peter G
Peter Gooch

Hi Bob!

Just one correction, the rheostat does not have two thumb screws as indicated by Rick. If you remove the plastic dial on the dash (you may need to destroy it and buy a new one) you can then access a securing nut. If you can get at it, you can release it and the rheostat can be pulled out to the rear(if you can get your hands back there and not damage any other connections). There is a bracket that the securing nut locks against, it's attached to the rear of the dash with two wood screws. No thumb screws.

I just replaced my wiring harness and also did the by-pass. To get access, and properly make the new connections, I would just recommend removing the dash. It's a few extra steps, and initially intimidating, but actually very satisfying when finished.

The Bently manual was very easy to follow step by step.

Mati Holland

Hey Peter stay covered. Sorry to hear that. We are finaly coming out of the total white and are down to the just muck and white. Mind you spring in Canada can bring 5 feet of snow.

Bob Mati I think RickC refers to the speedo and tach fingernuts. Pretty hard to do a good job without dropping dash facia forward.

Yep agree no brighter without changing bulbs. But a bit less heat and one less fire hazard.

Bill
Bill Brayford

Mati
You are absolutely correct...I stand corrected and thank you.
The stupid thing is that I currently have my dash out for refinish and.... well....my CPU had a glitch in it AKA.. went GAGA.
Yes Bill, I was thinking about the 2 fingernuts as ALL the gauges have these fingernuts except the 'stat. I gotta agree with both Bill and Mati, probably best bet is to drop the dash. Then you can get at the bracket holding the 'stat and remove the 'stat to in hand. I got lucky Mati...mine came of without having to take the hack saw to it.
The benifit with the dash pull is you have a much easier job at getting at the wires to solder together. Gotta agree Mati and Bill, now way are you going to do this with your hands up behind the dash and pulling the dash (dropping it down) is really not difficult to do. The dash only comes out a bit as you have a lot of wires attached behind there.
As a note to you Bob, make sure all bulbs are in there sockets and wires attached when you put the dash back up into place. Maybe a good time to have a look at connections and apply a little dielectric grease.
A humble RC
Rick Crawford

Again, many thanks for all your comments and additional tips. It would obviously seem a very good idea to drop the dashboard, this would then also make life easier in checking/changing the bulbs and connections. The decorating will have to wait ??
Bob B
R G Bendall

This thread was discussed between 25/02/2004 and 03/03/2004

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