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Triumph TR6 - Dash panel dimmer switch

I'm new to this site, and it seems that there is nothing that can't be resolved concerning my 74&1/2 tr6, simply by researching the archives. My problem appears to be a new thread. I'm about to install a third dimmer switch when it occured to me that perhaps I should find out why they are burning out almost instantly. I've looked at the wiring diagram and it seems that power comes directly from the fuse box. I have 12 volts between the red lead and ground, which seems awfully high for those tiny little lights! Does the voltage stabilizer come into play here? I'm getting very frustrated as these switches run around 70$U.S. plus shipping. Can anyone out there help me?
p eckland

Come on Rick and Bill,
Give hime the speech.
Christopher Trace

I'm waiting for the speech as well.

What *I* have is a knob that just turns and turns and turns.

I figured it out. There's nothing back there. It's a figment of my ....

Jim
Jim Deatsch

p--I don't have a welcome speech, but "welcome" to our little corner of the internet. The little lights are rated for 12V, so don't fret over that. I don't understand why your dimmer would burn out repeatedly as it is a rugged mechanical device (rheostat). Are you popping any fuses (hint: short to ground).

Anyway, I and some other folks seeking greater dash illumination recommend bypassing the dimmer switch entirely. Don't buy anymore dimmers!

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Hi John and welcome to this site,

THE SPEACH

I agree Chris, I think this is about the 6th time I have made this one.
BYPASS THE DAMN THING!
Read "burning out" from John and another current thread by w Holtzclaw re: blowing fuses and Jim, where his keeps turning and turning. JIM I suggest you do this procedure yesterday!!!!
Do not spend anymore money on the "rheostat" (dimmer switch)when a simple butt connector will eliminate this problem forever.
John, the VS has nothing to do with the dash lights at all. The only purpose of the VS is to give a stable (constant level) voltage to the fuel and temperature guages. The supply (from the fuse) to the rheostat then the dash bulbs is the correct way of supplying power to the bulbs.
Consider that even at full illumination, the gauges are not exactly the brightest at night. You will not loose points at concourse events either (with it bypassed and still in the dash).

Simply lift the 2 spade connectors attached to the rheostat and joint together. The 2 colours are Red from the fuse and Red/White to the bulbs.
OK, so yes, it is simple to do but difficult to get at. But if left alone then the dash fire will make it easier for you to get at.
Ideally the best means of joining the 2 wires is to cut off the spade connectors and strip back and solder the 2 together with some heat shrink over the connection. Second is to cut both connections crimp on male and female butt connectors with dielectric grease applied. These MUST be insulated connectors. Third is to go to your local electronics supply store and get a "double ended" spade connector. This is a spade connector that will joint the 2 female spades. Dielectric grease and heat shrink should be used. Fourth is cut the connectors, strip wires back and crimp in an inline splice connector...apply dielectric grease to the wire prior to crimping.

For those of you out there in TR land who are not having a problem, I still suggest to do this.

You will only know that you should have done this when it is too late.

Cheers
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Rick,

Amen. (stepping back in time) to the day when my car actually HAD a rheostat in it.

Mine is already done. The DPO was a good guy in some respects. <G>

Thanks for the speech though.

Jim
Jim Deatsch

Thank you for your welcome and your suggestions! I have progressed considerably since yesterday as I have panel lights in my speedo and tach. After burning out my third new dash light switch, a fuse finally blew. Someone put a 50 amp. fuse in there! I now realize that I have a short somewhere in the rest of my panel lights. After hooking up the wires directly, I most certainly did notice an increase in brightness. I can do without this switch. I'm starting to realize that a little flexibility is in order when it comes to trying to retain the originality of this little beauty! Thank-you all once again!
john eckland

Hi John

Man you move fast? Yesterday you were in Manitoba today Ontario?

Go to this page towards bottom for a correct wiring diagram for your car. TR wiring diagrams.

http://www.britishv8.org/techhome.htm

Theres a lot more than dashlights hooked to that fuse. Marker lights/licence etc. Print the works or at least your car and back page best on legal paper size.

Look to the multi connector on the floor drivers side gets wet? Check for frayed wires bad grounds at other exterior lamps.

Buy tube dialectric grease and coat all clean connections before reassembly. Best advice your Momma didn't give you ever.

Luck
Bill

Bill Brayford

my 76 tr6 has 3 blade connectors to the rheostat.to by-pass, do i connect all 3 blades together?
jack hinerman

Jack
For a wiring DWG. of your 6, link to the page Bill shows in his thread above.
Your schematic shows that there is (could be) 3 R/Ws coming to one side of the rheostat and 1 R to the other terminal. Yes, connect them all together.
Simply put... lift the connector(s) from one side of the rheostat and lift the connector(s) from the other side and joint together.


John
You must solve (find) your short. Like Dr. Bill says, there is more than the dash lights on that fuse. Check out his link to the electrical schematics (you need Adobe Acrobat Reader).
YUP... 50 amp fuse is just a little to big:)

Rick C
Rick Crawford

THANKS RICK
jack hinerman

My dash lights once again have that wonderful green hue at night! The heater control light proved to be the problem, as a bared wire was shorting out. Now that my confidence has been restored, I think I'll tackle the rear wheel camber problem! Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions! John E
john eckland

This thread was discussed between 12/08/2003 and 16/08/2003

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