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Triumph TR6 - Diff Mounts & Competition Springs
|Just thought I'd pass this on as a public service to my fellow TR6 nuts. I ordered a complete set of rubber diff mounts, front & rear from the guy I bought my TR6 from, who is a Moss distributor. I got the front set but he told me Moss was not happy with the quality of the rear sets so they did not ship to him & they are looking for a replacement supplier.I sent off my order to TRF. I also inquired from my fellow about the stiffer competition springs and he said same problem - they are crappy and increase car height 2" - 3" so Moss is again looking for a new supplier. He said Moss at one time had good comp. springs & sold a lot of them but this lot is bad. I hear good things, however, about TRF from everybody I contact.|
|I think TRF sells alot of comp kit made by Good Parts. From roller rockers to springs. The GP springs I have lowered the car about 1/2" to 3/4" inch (so my jack won't fit under the frame....). Other than that I'm pleased. I DID end up using a spacer set under the rear springs - it was a Moss set purchased years ago, and 3/8", I believe. After reconfiguring the trailing arm brackets that gave me good rear camber, all's been well.|
When I bought the car in May '04 I ordered a lot of parts that the guy told me should be looked after. Without consulting, I ordered a set of stock rear springs and also the aluminum packing pieces at $27.95 per. I was thinking I'd probably just beef up the old rear springs with the new rubbers and alum. packing pieces if they weren't too bad & swap the new springs with one of my TR buddies for another part. It looks like the PO had already replaced the springs 'cause they sure look new (shiny black with the white stripe)but it's hard to tell with West Coast cars as they all look so good underneath. Your comp. springs lowered your car that much? Can't get the jack in there? I've got a lot of work to do on this car & probably shouldn't be fooling with comp springs at this point. I need new rear bearings and can't find a place who will guarantee they won't destroy the hub getting it apart so I may buy two used, low-mileage hubs from a buddy. Not my favorite choice but they seem pretty good. I've got the front end rebuild kit, tie-rods, the aforementioned diff mounts, the solid aluminum rack mounts, Prothane upper control arm bushings, braided steel brake hoses, new Lockheed clutch slave cylinder, trailing arm bushings, new tube shock conversion (installed), front wheel bearings and a few more small bits. I also need to rebuild the front sway bar as mine was missing and I picked one up without any hardware for $20.00. How good were those comp springs and did your car have all the other new bits installed when you put them in?
P.S. The solid mount kit looks a B*tch to install - anybody done this & does the rack have to come right out of the car? What about the radiator? Out too?
P.P.S. Got a glove box finger pull from Moss. Not pretty - looks like cheap stamped aluminum. TRF advertises theirs as chrome; I'd go with TRF.
If you only have $20 invested in the sway bar you might
want to consider the upgraded front and rear sway bars from Addco, sold by Moss and Vic.Brit. I'm sure the GoodParts sway bars are also good but have no experiance with them.The handling with the uprated bars is exceptional, very flat in the corners.
The solid steering rack mounts are pretty simple
to install. Pull the Rad., remove one of the old mounts,install a new mount, then replace other side.
You don't want the rack shifting unless you plan on having a front end alignment done anyway.
You will notice a better feel in the steering with the new rack mounts.
|My new christmas present may need diff mounts, are the poly mounts better than the rubber? what about vibration. My car has a "clonk" on acceleration and am wondering if its the diff or u joints,looking around the diff mounting pins, they did not appear cracked, the rubber mounts look to be still there, does the diff have to be dropped to replace the rubber mounts or do they just unbolt? merry Christmas everyone,Jeff|
|Iff you are putting in diff rubbere do to clunking |
I would considder going thrue the whole rear suspension
In my opinion all of the tr6 clunking problems
begin with the trailing arm bushings
as they soften up the trail arms move forward and aft
depending on drive train loads .
Tr6 roadsters are all near thirty years old
and the splines on the half shafts are worn
and most likely not serviced with grease every
12000 miles as indicated in the setrvice manuel.
This tends to create another more serious problem
with the differentil mounts .
Under heavey acceleration the the spline sharts bined
due to lack of grease and wear and dirt combined with forward movement of the trailing arms caused by
soft rubber inserts tug and pull on the differential.
It also causes the differential to rotate around the
vertical axis .It was never designed to do that
It results in differential mount failure.
In short replace or grease your splines or half shaft axles,replace your trailing arm bushings with poly
urethane Also if you retain your old half shafts
ad greese fitting to them so they can be greesed on a regular basis
This thread was discussed between 20/12/2004 and 10/01/2005
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