MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - EGR removal

PB Blaster, heat, cold etc...no luck. Anyone got a method other then T-N-T?
JT White

Just keep at it. You might have to cut it off
DON KELLY

Got it! It was no match to my superior mind. (not to mention my "bigger" hammer)
JT White

Have one of them too.

DON KELLY

JT... Would like to see how you plug / dress up the two holes left behind. I'd like to do the same or as I said in a previous thread I'll paint the little bugger to look like an alien.
Ken Shaddock

Just cut off a 3/4" fine thread bolt to about 3/4 " long and notched a washer to miss the head stud/nut and put it in the hole with some high heat RTV on the threads, painted it engine black and viola! The manifold was already plugged. Looks MUCH better then that worthless EGR robot looking thing staring at me from atop the head!
JT White

Will do. Now where's my sledge hammer?
Ken Shaddock

Ken, if you haven't been able to free yours just apply some penetrating oil or wintergreen to the threads and put a large screw driver through the "Cage" part of the body of it (jeeze how cruel, poor alien) make sure its not too far through as to hit the valve cover when it comes free. You'll get plenty of leverage on it to break it free that way.
JT White

Most people on their EGR's use a socket end plug
DON KELLY

"socket end plug" google comes up with nothing...went to three stores yesterday (HD, Lowes, ACE) looking for a fine thread plug it's size and could find nothing (everything I found was coarse or tapered) the only thing I could find that was a direct fit was a 3/4" fine thread bolt. Don, do you have a picture? The bolt doesn't look bad (at least not as bad as the EGR) but something more flush would be preferred. I assume you mean a plummers plug with the square socket in it. Thanks
JT White

JT,

You won't find what you need at those types of places. You need think industrial supply (such as McMaster-Carr, MSC or Grainger) or a fastener supply. You will typically find what Don is talking about refered to as setscrews. Here's an example from McMaster-Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=7llkg1

or the catalog page:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/3060/=7lmzze
SteveP1

Try this . It's actually called a set screw, thanks Steve
http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=7lo35b
DON KELLY

Thats a BIG set screw!
JT White

In fact I have S.S. Ones that I bought for the Wedge and then ended up changing heads. Let me know what size you need
DON KELLY

Sorry guys, gotta revisit this thread and need some help.

EGR removal and 3/4" fine thread bolt to plug the hole left behind I understand.

However, the pipe that runs from the EGR to the intake manifold when removed leaves a hole in the intake manifold. I'm having a hard time turning out the pipe-end fitting at the intake manifold so before I wreck something am I looking for a second 3/4" fine thread bolt for that hole too?

Also, about 4 inches back of the EGR pipe entry on the same intake manifold, the vacuum hose that runs to the brake boost comes off of a 3-way fitting that is now useless without emmissions hoses coming off of it. I'd like to replace that sputnik looking thing with a simple threaded hollow elbow for the hose that runs to the brake. Any suggestions on where to get a part to replace sputnik?

Ken
Ken Shaddock

Dig yourself up on eBay the early Banjo fitting for the brake booster. The other side goes to the Canister I think (maybe)
DON KELLY

1/2 " square head pipe plug fills the manifold hole nicely. My manifold has a two way banjo...one for the brake booster the other for the egr...I just put a vacuum plug over the egr pipe
JT White

Went to Fastenal today and ordered a 3/4" Fine #5 1" long bolt (16 thread count) to put into the hole where the EGR came out of. Home Depot and all hardware stores around here don't stock 3/4 fine. Also ordered some Loctite RTV 600F gasket goop.

JT... I did find that the brass 1/2" square head plug (national pipe thread) for that one hole in the manifold worked well thank you. Not sure what the "banjo" is. Maybe that's what I'm calling Sputnik so I'll look that up. I agree that if we are talking the same thing I can cap the two other small vacuum tubes. I was looking for something a bit cleaner looking.

Okay... banjo...
Ken Shaddock

Banjo... well I see what you mean Don. Before going down that road I did what I should have done from the beginning and looked into the Moss catalog to find on page 37 item 21... "Non-Return Valve, on manifold". Isn't that exactly what I need? I called Moss and they'll confirm tomorrow whether that little part has a 5/8" fine thread to screw into my intake manifold. It's supposed to serve the servo so maybe I'm in business. My brain fade is picking up speed.

K
Ken Shaddock

I trimed my 1/2 plugs threads down so as to allow a good passage/balance between manifold runs. When I first installed it before shaving it down it ran slightly sluggish (threads bottomed on opposite side blocking flow)...after grinding the plug to half it's length the pipe in between was nice and cold under idle indicating a good passage of flow in betwwen.
JT White

Thx JT... will be mindfull of that.

BTW all, that part I spoke of is no longer available from Moss. They've had no luck trying to order it since April 2010. I'll check Rimmer.
Ken Shaddock

Found the Non Return Valve at Rimmer and ordered.

After installation I'll take a picture to show the "cleaned up" area with that valve to servo set up, the plug JT refers to and the cap screw where the AC EGR R2D2 was.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

K
Ken Shaddock

Hey... some pix to follow and some 'splaining' re how this turned out for this DIY'er. The EGR is gone and all the holes are plugged.

1. Mid cross-over between carbs on the intake I used a 1/2 pipe thread (NPT) plug to close the hole left by the pipe running from the EGR.

2. Where the EGR sat in the block I plugged that hole using a 1" long, 3/4" FINE thread cap screw.

Threads on both were gooped with Loctite Superflex Red High Temp RTV silicone gasket sealant.

3. Where the banjo sat and serviced the brake boost and the remaining emissions hoses I installed a non return valve from Rimmer. Jeff at LBC stocks the same unit but I jumped the gun and ordered from Rimmer. It has the required 5/8" FINE thread.

The engine bay looks "cleaner" now but as you will see in my pix is not pristine. Also, my idle speed went down to 1000 rpm from 1600 presumably since I have eliminated some of the vacuum leaks.

FWIW,

Ken

Ken Shaddock

Just another pic...

Ken Shaddock

This thread was discussed between 17/06/2010 and 17/08/2010

Triumph TR6 index