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Triumph TR6 - Electrical Problem

I suppose it was only a matter of time until Dr. Lucas paid me a visit. This morning my '71 TR6 quit running as I was motoring along Lake Michigan at about 50 MPH. Ignition and oil lights came on & I rolled to a stop.

I attempted to restart the car and got no idiot lights, solinoid clicks, nothing. A quick look around determined no obvious loose/corroded connections. The PO had installed a rebuilt alternator in '95 and drove about 3,000 miles since then. I've put over that on it this summer.:)

After getting it home via a flatbed tow, I figured why not give it a try? I turned off the overdrive switch and the engine would turn-over but not start.

I mention the overdrive only because the PO had over-ridden the lockout switches in the trans to overcome some difficulties in engaging the OD. I think it just needs adjustment but haven't gotten to that yet. I just have to remember to turn it off before backing.

Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. I'll likely spend the weekend (rainy forcast anyway) with the schematics, a tester and my trusty tube of dielectric grease.

Charlie

EC Smith

Charlie,

I have to observe that the first, obvious answer is losing ignition.

This would cause the engine to quit and the idiot lights to stay on.

Did you lose a connection from the ignition switch? Do you have spark at the coil? Why are we here?

Jim
Jim Deatsch

Charlie, now I'm scared! My new (to me!) 71 has the electrical gremlins sometimes. I think this weekend I am going to follow the advice given under the thread titled "Electric Gremlins"-you should read it as there seems to be much good advice for us. I'm gonna start at the battery and work my way back! After, that is, I buy some of that dielectric grease and a tester!
JohnB

I spent last night doing this:

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Electrical/TR6Sockets/TR6Sockets.htm

Tonight I get to put everything back together and see if I'm back to being legal! Who designed these sockets anyway?

Don from NJ
'74 CF19053U
D Hasara

Charlie

The quitting plus no battery function says alternator or just an old battery not taking charge? New battery low fluids? Old cars beat the hell out of batterys.

If a battery is left for a bit it will equalize and give a bit of juice.

If you have a charger hook it up and see what happens or use jumper cables. Leave donor vehicle hooked up and running for a few minutes before you try. If it starts with jumpers look at the battery and alternator.

Bill
Bill Brayford

Jim,

Earlier this year, I went through the electrical system cleaning contacts. After your comment, I checked the relevant ones again, tightening a couple just a bit more. When I finished the trouble was still intermittant. Hmmmm.

Everyone,

The switch tested ok with a VOM and test light. I decided to test the switch under load (heater motor on high). Well, well, well... Turns out that the switch had worn to the point where I still had some conductivity but it would not always pass higher current, say above one amp!

New switch, so far, so good! Maybe I can now return from the land behind the looking glass.

Charlie

EC Smith

ALLRIGHT Charlie!!!

The Dratted Sir Joseph Lucas is, once again, ONCE AGAIN I SAY, foiled in his feeble attempts at causing us Colonials grief.

The man should be shot, SHOT I tell you.

Oh, wait. He's daid ain't he.

Damn, another plot ruined.

Well done Charles, well done to you.

Jim
Jim Deatsch

This thread was discussed between 12/09/2003 and 04/10/2003

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