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Triumph TR6 - Electronic Rust Protection?

Do any of you have any experience/knowledge on these electronic devices used for rust protection? I saw them first in a JC Whitney catalog, and a search on the web accidentally found several more. I was actually searching for Waxoyl distributers and competiting products when these came up.

Anyway, they claim that they restore missing electrons(?) that are lost in the corrosion process. Sounds possible, but its been a long time since chemistry class.

Any thoughts? Real or Snake Oil?
Thanks,
Mark

Mark H

I heard a few years back you could get it from Moss.

But why not make your own Waxoyl ? Click here for the recipe:-

http://www.geocities.com/wallaces_21/waxoyl.html

I had my Waxoyl shipped from England in 1998 when I was doing my restoration. It came as a kit with a pressure pump sprayer. To get it to spray, I had to add a lot of extra thinner. The recipe says turpentine. TeriAnn Wakeman says to use Mineral Spirits (also known in Canada as Varsol or Deltasol).

Also I had to warm it up by placing the sprayer in a bucket of boiling water to get it to spray. I used a long piece of tubing that I could fit inside the box sections I wanted to do and started spraying. Then I slowly withdrew the wand to do the job.

I sprayed my TR3A in 1990. Since then I've driven more than 70,000 miles and there's still no sign of rust. But I painted it all underneath as a concours car and keep it clean. No wayoyl on outer bottom surfaces or under fenders or on the frame either.

TeriAnn says that wayoyl will not flow once it has been sprayed and suggests that it be re-sprayed about 2 weeks later to cover any shrinkage cracks in the first coating.

I suggest that you buy a sprayer from a local garden center - normally used to spray weed-killer.

Next summer, I plan to use this recipe for the 1960 TR3A that I'm doing now for a friend who lives in Toronto.

Don elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

Don,
There were 2 reasons I was interested in the electronic approach. The first is, if it works, the coverage should be better. No missed spots, especially hard to reach like under carpet, inside doors, etc. But the real reason is that, like others, I don't have a lift available, and the thought of spraying on this stuff with just jackstand clearance is not really appealing.

Alas, I just saw a posting in Cars.com that gave electronic a thumbs-down. If I go the 'Waxoyl' route, I may try your recipe.

Thanks for the feedback

Mark
Mark H

Mark--Those electronic gizmos only work if you keep your TR immersed in an electrolyte (do you park in the ocean?). Spend your money on Waxoyl or an equivalent product; JCWhitney should be reminded of the lawsuits associated with the electronic junk.

Rick O.
CC80171UO
Rick Orthen

Mark--Check Gempler's for rust products too: http://www.gemplers.com/a/shop/list.asp?UID=2003021717562898&GEN2=&GEN3=&GEN9=0&SKW=1M2RST&c=catrepair

Eastwood also sells a version of Waxoyl.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

The electronic gizmo does work. It's a modification of the galvanic protection system (actually, in this case I think its called cathodic protection) used on boats and for reinforcing steel on bridges to protect them from corrosion.

So if you have a bridge or a boat, use it.

With regards to cars - proper metal treatement prior to priming and painting is more effective (My Opinion).
Bob

This thread was discussed between 22/02/2003 and 24/02/2003

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