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Triumph TR6 - Engine Compression

Ok folks

I removed the engine & gearbox complete when I stripped the car down, before I did that the engine did turn over and sounded OK. I did however forget to do a compression test.

The question is can you do a compression test with teh engine out? My guess is no.

So now what would be the next phase?

Thanks

les
lw gilholme

I don't see why not. Some of our friends just north of here are building a TR8 and actually started the engine while it was sitting on the floor. Have a look:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFxK_9g7lbE

Tony (sighing as the snow falls)
A. J. Koschinsky

Les,

A piece of cake as long as starter can turn engine. To do it without carbs is the best...

Cheers,

JGC
J. G. Catford

Ok so let me guess.

1. my carbs are off

2. Remove all plugs

3. conect compression tester in one pot at a time

4. flash battery over the starter let crank over a number of times 3?

Would this be the sequence?

Thanks

Les
lw gilholme

Hi Les,
Crank till the gauge reading peaks...that is it stays at one reading and won't go higher. let's use 100 as an example, record all readings for each cylinder.
When all cylinder's are tested the readings are good if all are within approx 10lbs of each other. So you could have 100, 90, 108, 95, 112, 101 ..indicating an evenly worn engine if one is way lower than the rest ( say 45lbs ) then it shows bad rings on that cylinder

Charlie
Charlie B.

Les
Yes 3 to 4 cranks will give you max compression. Also consider doing 2 tests/cylinder. First crank is dry then a second crank with 2 squirts of oil squirted into spark plug hole. Make note of both readings. This will tell you the condition of the rings. Try to have engine in its normal operating position of "level"...you know what I mean:)
Rick
Rick Crawford

Hi Folks

Lots of good advice. I have a couple of options as I cannot confirm the KMs (odo says 49K) the engine is the orginal. So it ran from 1975 to 1993 (18 years) so only 2700 kms per year does not seem correct, giving the state of the frame.

I can put the engine back on to the frame so that it would be level as Rick suggests. Or I could take the bottom pan offand have a look at the bearings, and if they look ok I might just leave it until the start-up process next year.... or I might just change the main bearing set, Con rod bearings, small end bushes and thrust washers...Just on spec.

I will let you know.

Les
lw gilholme

Les
If not too difficult to maneuver engine back onto the frame then this is your fastest way of looking at the rings. This test will NOT tell you anything about the lower end bearings. I agree Les, 2700KM/Yr sounds low.
Keep that this is definitely your best time to do any engine work. I did you you suggest...I put the engine back in and drove for 3 summers before pulling it out to do the full rebuild. I was lucky to get those 3 years. I ran with the needle down at the 25LB mark HOT!!!
Point is, you will need to pull the engine (and tranny) if you decide to rebuild later.
Rick
Rick Crawford

This thread was discussed between 24/04/2008 and 25/04/2008

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