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Triumph TR6 - Engine Plug Removal

After y'all get John's Wheel Bearing Cap off, how about some experienced soul relating the preferred method of removing the several blanks or plugs in the engine. There's two at the rear of the head and several in the block. I managed to force the small one out of the head, but the large one is "sunk" in and I can't get an edge to pry on. It's also one that's rusted through so I tried to pry it out using that hole to no avail. I intend to replace them all so I need to remove them all!! Whoever's done this, I 'd appreciate some do's and don'ts before I really screw something up. Thanks.
Doug Baker

Drill a hole and pry it out.

Don, I already have a hole (that's why I'm replacing it) and 'hit don't pry too good!! I assume from other references that the plugs are glued in with epoxy and I'll struggle and get this sucker out if I have to use my dremel, but what're the I apt to break something irreplaceable in the proces or just bang away 'til I get it out?
Doug Baker

Are they epoxied in?

From another source

"A screwdriver (big) and a hammer (big) work wonders for the removal.

Hylomar works going back in, after you clean the block well from any crud.

I would use brass cups. "

Brass suits me, but then there's the dissimilar metals thingie that Steve Pike always emphasizes. TRF is my default source. They have fitted up a kit w/all the cups for the entire engine. Where would you get brass cups?

Block'll be dipped and thoroughly cleaned. Some of the water channels in the head were clogged plum shut with corrosion. I've always used only distilled water to mix with the antifreeze in the cooling systems of my cars and have not experienced too much buildup of the kind of stuff I found in this engine.
Doug Baker

Dorman Products at NAPA or your local parts store.

And they are not expensive. Maybe 10% more than the steel.

If this is correct and it may not be, (I'm going from an old tattered list) these are the numbers that I think you need. Keep in mind, that the correct depth is important, so you will need the (SC) shallow cup, which I know these are where noted.

Dorman Numbers:

565-017 - 1.0" Front uses (1) $1.09

565-024 - 1.25"(SC) Rear uses (3) $1.39

565-025 - 1.375" (SC) Side uses (5) $2.19

565-069 - 2.0" (SC) Rear Cam? uses (1) $2.19

The head also uses 1.25"

When it comes to the plugs on the drivers side of the engine. Don't hit it along the bottom edge. You'll be banging away until the cows come home. There is a raised ridge of the block behind those plugs. Hit the top half and they will pivot right out.

I like Don's idea of bigFH and big FSD. Usually this will work. Not to happy on the idea of drilling as metal shavings result and usually go where you do not want them.

I am not familiar with these brass plugs. I kinda like steel plugs in a steel block. I am open to correction here though. Mine where all replaced with a set from BPNW.

I used black stuff (I think Hylomar) to seat the new plugs. I placed the appropriate size socket in the cup of the plug and "hit away".

Rick Crawford

Thanks Rick.
Doug Baker

Rick, Don & Company:

I did not use anything to seal the plugs and the new engine is still not in although it's pretty much ready to go in once the engine bay is cleaned up. Should I consider removing the new plugs and installing new ones with Hylomar or other sealant such as silicone? I've watched an experienced professional restorer install plugs with no sealant. Now I wonder???

1976 - TR6
Bob Evans

This thread was discussed between 06/03/2009 and 09/03/2009

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