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Triumph TR6 - Frame weight

Hey Folks,
Anyone have any idea of the weight of the bare frame? I need to plan to transport the frame to the sand blast shop and want to know if after I pull everything off, it'll be light enough for a couple of guys to pick up and set on a trailer, or if I need to plan on a lift of some sort. Also for applying POR 15, is priming necessary and what's the preferred top coat over POR 15. As always, I know one of you has been there with this and has the answer. Thanks.
db
D R Baker

DB,

The preferred top coat on POR15 is their Chassis Black product. No priming is necessary with POR15, but you should follow their entire prep routine using Marine Clean and the etching product. Too bad we're not able to treat the inside of the frame!

I don't know the weight of the frame, but a few guys (4) should be able to lift it provided it's only the frame and not a rolling chassis.

Don from Jersey
D Hasara

DB,

I don't know the weight either, but I can pick mine up and carry it around the garage by myself, and I'm a little guy. Two guys should be able to handle it with no trouble.
Dan Masters

DB,
Me and a buddy picked up mine easily and threw it in the back of a van when it went for its bath at the chemical dip place.
I poured a gallon of methel hydrate over the frame and let it dry before putting two coats of POR15 on by brush. Wear crappy clothes and gloves, resperator if
working in doors. After I sprayed the inside of the frame with RUST CHECK (a sticky rust preventitive)
I didn't top coat the POR15 with anything and have had no problems. POR15 is worth every cent.
God luck,
Chris
Christopher Trace

I was able to manhandle the frame myself in most cases when I had my 69 frame down to bare bones. I estimate the weight at 250 pounds or so. I put it in the back of an extended version Aerostar by lifting one end up on the back and pushing it in from the other end when I went to havbe it sandblasted. It extended out about a foot and I bungy corded the rear hatch.
Michael S. Petryschuk

I'd guess under 2 hundred with most at the front. Its off balance due to shape so 2 people are best. But I can shoulder up by myself with right balance point. If its over 200 my son is full of crap saying I'm physicaly PFFFHHHT...:)

Made a quick wheel rig at front so I can lift the back and push it like a wheelbarrow around the back of shop for blasting. I don't even work up a sweat.

Not sure of your frame condition? But if its a basic mild rust? Clean it up real well with a wire brush. Use por prep and then paint the Por on. Use a brush with Chris's advice and suggestions for inside. I wouldn't waste the money on sandblast unless deep.

Box frame rusts from inside. Outside is purely cosmetic. You can hang bare mild steel on a wall and mist with water everyday. If the area has normal air circulation the steel will get a visable surface coat of rust. Wipes off with thinners. Do it for a month?

Nice clean steel after a month now look at the side thats been against the wall with no air movement? Pits and all Yuk. Thats what happens with the car. The rust you can see is the tip of the iceburg. Cars rust from inside out and so do TR frames.

After you do the por 15. Pressure soak the inside of the frame especialy from the back with an oil product of some sort. Tip frame at all angles while doing. For long term preservation it will do more than all the top coats. If your trailing arm mounts are good drill holes to spray oil inside and then plug. Fill them up if you can.

My opinion.

Bill

Bill Brayford

This thread was discussed between 09/09/2004 and 10/09/2004

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