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Triumph TR6 - Front End Alignment

Am taking my 76 for a front-end alignment... a little treat for Dorothy on Tuesday 7/31. The mechanic who will work on the car is a seasoned lifer in the trade but he has no specs for this car. I have the Bentley and pages 368 & 369 seem to cover all he needs like camber, castor, king pin inclination and toe.

Anyone have any tips, corrections to the Bentley or additional info I should pass along to him?

Thank you. Ken
Ken Shaddock

Don't know Bentley info but according to Haynes
Front end
Castor 2.75 plus minus 0.5 degrees
Toe in - 0- 1/16 inch
Camber 0.25 degrees negative plus minus 0.5 degrees.

I don't see how camber can be changed without cutting or welding the attachment points.

Toe same as front
Camber 1 degree negative plus minus 0.5 degrees.

Michael Petryschuk

Thanks Mike... seems the Bentley Publishers version of the shop manual matches the Haynes data except for the plus/minus... more tolerance than your info.

In terms of camber they discuss the car being supported on chassis stands and the 4 nuts be slackened on the lower wishbone brackets at the chassis. Add shims to go negative and remove shims to go positive. This to be followed by check and adjust front wheel track.

When the front wheels were pulled yesterday for balancing (I had a vibration in the front end which manifests at the steering wheel - slight shake) we found inside shoulder wear on the right front hence the follow alignment. I do see some positive camber on that side.

I could be on a snipe hunt Mike with issues elsewhere. The right front wheel had some slop in it so we turned the nut one notch tighter. I've had that wheel bearing replaced but as they say... stuff happens. Here we go $$$.

Ken Shaddock

Yeah- I meant can't see how castor is changed.

I have had to re tighten my front wheel bearings several times because they developed slop in the first few years after replacing the bearings. They seem to have settled in finally.

Good luck with the adjustments.
Michael Petryschuk

Castor can be changed even though it is nominally considered non-adjustable on these cars. There are two relatively easy paths to take. One is to machine a little width off the upper ball joints and shim accordingly. The other is to use an XJ-6 ball joint which is narrower and shim accordingly, note this does require opening up the holes in the upper arm as as the XJ-6 ball joints use larger diameter bolts.

Thx Steve/Mike...

Am in a holding pattern waiting to get into one of the busiest shops in Ontario for LBC's. I'll take this info with me.
Ken Shaddock

This thread was discussed between 28/07/2012 and 04/08/2012

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