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Triumph TR6 - Fuel tank

I ran out of petrol and out of luck at the same time. I carried a spare tank of petrol so I did not expect to get stranded. However consuming the last drops out of the tank had clogged the total fuel system. Apparently lots of rust particles reside at the bottom of the tank. Consuming the last drops proofed to be fatal.

I spent a lot of energy in cleaning the total piping; even the pump had lots of fine rust particles in the housing. Finally I it runs fine again.

I am however worried to find so much rust at the bottom of the tank. The rust could possible eat right through the bottom. And just suppose I run out of gas again the whole ritual will start over again.

Anyone have some advise on how to proceed.

Thanks,
Erik
E. Creyghton

Erik
The tanks quite solid and will take a lot of rusting.

The tank will not rust inside as long as there is fresh gas in it. Most of the rust comes from tanks stored empty. Moisture in tank. The rust thats there will flake. So keep an eye on your filter till it stops. Tank can be taken out and blast cleaned but leave it to a pro. Coatings are no good. They only last for a while and cause huge problems.

Best way to preserve your tank from rust is always keep it full and at the end of the driving year if stored drain completely and then fill with gas and Sta-Bil gas treatment unless your storage place wants it dry.

If thats the case drain and spray with oil. Or add 2 cycle oil ratio about 1:50 for last tank of season.

Watch those fuel lines there steel and rust up inside worse than tank? Replacing is easy.

Bill

Bill Brayford

I took my tank out and got it "Renewed" for $180. Essentially, they dip it in some sort of gas proof polymer that seals it inside and out. I think it was money well spent and the tank is not difficult to remove.
Bryn

Bill,

I agree that oxygen is needed for the rust to progress. My chemistry is not at the level to be sure that oxygen is not part of the petrol molecule formula. So I am not convinced that, if rust already exists, keeping the tank topped up will stop the process.

If a new coating can be dissolved by petrol you might be in for more trouble.
I looked at prices for an aluminium tanks and ruled this option out.

As far as I can asses the rust comes from the tank and not the fuel lines.

Erik
E. Creyghton

Hi Erik

I can't be sure either. The tanks are not coated new and any I have looked at only have rust in the bottom 2 to 3 inches.

Almost always caused by water during storage. Unlike newer cars TR fuel P/U is the bottom of tank so water and crap goes down the hole.

In most cases removal and a blast and rinse will make them like new.

The reason I suggested having it done is I don't want anyone blowing up. Fumes from seams?

I removed mine years ago and filled with water several times then scrubbed with water in tank rusted areas with a home made wire brush invention on a broom stick down through the filler neck. To get rid of flakes. Then I used a litre of muriatic acid swimming pool strength. And more scrubbing no water.

USE A VERY GOOOD MASK. Fumes will knock you out!

Gave it 20 minutes to work scrubbed again and rinsed several times with water. Fill it up with water to kill acid.

That was about 10 years ago and tanks still bright and clean inside.

Bill
Bill Brayford

Hi Erik

After blasting, repairing and modifying (larger fuel outlet pipe), I used an internal 'sloshing' compound which is certified for use in light aircraft fuel tanks - sourced it through a local flying club. It does not harden completely but is difficult to remove. Instructions are very detailed and it's easy to do. It's a single pack and looks like honey.

I only use 96RON fuel and have used 100+ on several occasion without any ill effects over 4 years. AVGAS has a higher octane so I can't imagine any problems.

If you don't blast the tank, you might want to give any suspect areas a good prod with a pointed probe. I found a couple of spots under the rubber strips glued to the back of the tank - probably condensation or a leaky tank to body seal at some stage. Instructions say it seals seams but I wouldn't trust it to fill pinholes!!

Regards
Roger

Roger H

In 1990, just after I had finished the total body-off restoration of my TR3A, I found my gas tank had a leak. It was not from rust, but for years, my tool box in the trunk had been bouncing up and down on rough gravel roads with all the rallying I had done and this scruffing action up and down had worn a hole in my tank (behind the rough masonite back board in my TR3A trunk (boot).

So I took it to some professional tank rebuilders and they refused to weld or braze the hole. Too dangerous ! They sand or grit blasted it inside and "sloshed" it inside with a two part epoxy compound. A few days later it was back in my TR3A and I've have had no problem with it since. I've driven it over 72,000 miles in 12 summers and I store it with the tank almost empty in my very, very dry inside garage for 4 or 5 months every winter. We get lots of snow here in Canada.

For those in North America, Eastwood sell a tank sloshing compound.

I can remember about 1965 driving 410 miles from Hamilton, Ontario to Montreal on a one tank of gas (petrol) - 12 Imp Gals - and after this long trip, I had trouble every time I started. I found lots of rust and other stuff from the tank in the bottom of both the float bowls on my SU carbs. With the shaking of the engine on its mounts trying to start, the sediment would get stirred up and then the gas could get to the jets in the carbs and then the engine would start. If the car was parked for say 10 minutes, it restarted quickly because the sediment had not yet settled.

I cleaned out the float bowls and the problem had gone.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

I will flush the tank a few times, this will have to do for the moment.

During winter I will take the tank out and get is sand blasted. I will check on the type of sealing compounds available, the local avaviation industry is a good place to start.

Don, if you open up the float bowls on your SU's are you obliged to mount a new seal or can you re-use the old on ?

Erik
E. Creyghton

Erik - In 153,000 miles, I used the original set of float bowl gaskets and now I think I'm on the third replacement set. If you are careful removing the tops of the float bowls for the SU's on a TR3A, they can be re-used many times. I never use any gasket goo on these gaskets. They are really only to keep the dirt out the bowl because if the "Y" yoke for the float height is set correctly, the float will keep the gas (petrol) from ever getting that high.

Don Elliott
Don Elliott

This thread was discussed between 13/07/2003 and 15/07/2003

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