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Triumph TR6 - Garage Floors

It has been a while since I have posted, and seems like the board has been rather quiet. I presume this means all our cars are running well.

I was wondering what everybody would suggest to finish a garage floor? I am debating whether to go with epoxy, or something else?

Ignatius

Ignatius Rigor

Hello,

Indeed I like epoxyflex.

Cheers,

Jean G.
J. G. Catford

Ignatius

Epoxy gives a great look and is very durable. It is also very slippery when wet or with oil on it. A little aggregate (sand) helps reduce the slip.

I have stuck with the base concrete floor so I can't offer any other suggestions.

Good luck in your choice.

Mike Petryschuk
Michael Petryschuk

I did mine with Behr one part epoxy 5 years ago and it has proven quite durable. Less dust when sweeping up, and oil spots wipe up easily, not that this would be of concern to a British car owner.

Tony
A. J. Koschinsky

I went with epoxy with the new shop building and with a good grade of concrete paint with the previous shop building in Fort Worth. And I've worked on bare and sealed concrete, asphalt and dirt, which just about covers working floor surfaces. Between the paint and epoxy, both are a big help in keeping things clean as dust is minimized and spills clean up easier. Sealing concrete helps with the dust, but doesn't seem to be as spill resistant as paint or epoxy, which is great on that count.

The paint is subject to hot tire pick up so I would typically let the car sit out for a bit to let the tires cool some before pulling in and I kept carpet squares for parking on. As a result, I never had much of a problem in the working garage, but in the painted daily driver parking garage had to refinish every couple of years because of the hot tire pick up. Both are slippery when wet. If this is to be a working garage, it is my position that you just learn to deal with the fact that it will slippery when wet. One of the last things I want when I have to work off the floor is any grit embedded in the finish trying to abrade my arms, etc.

The key with either is prep, prep, prep. The better the surface preparation, the better the finish will go down and the better it will adhere.
SteveP1

Steve, J.G., Tony...

Before I do my shop floor this summer I need to repair some cracks that are anywhere from 1/4 inch to 1 1/2 inches wide but not deep. They are several years old hence not worsening. Any experience with this problem? When I go to hardware stores, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. it seems there are lots of choices and opinions from sales clerks.

Ken
Ken Shaddock

There are several techniques I've heard of being used. The commercial outfit that we use at work overfills small cracks with an industrial grade structural epoxy, lets it cure and then sands it smooth prior to applying the floor coating. I've also heard of epoxy mixed with fine sand and then smoothed out. In one particularly bad area, I've seen it leveled out with concrete.

The epoxy floor in my shop building was done as part of the contruction process, so I did nothing except write checks. The painted floor was in really good shape, we filled what few small cracks there were with epoxy and then smoothed it down when we did the floor prep.
SteveP1

Thanks for your suggestions. I will remember that prep, prep, prep seems to be key.

Shopping around I have stumbled on concrete stain. Anybody try this? I can stain a union jack onto the floor. :) But as Steve points out it may not be as spill resistant.
Ignatius Rigor

This thread was discussed between 18/01/2010 and 22/01/2010

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