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Triumph TR6 - Head Gasket Replacement - Advise?

Pulled all the smog... valve cover gasket blew. Replaced it along with a really cool new valve cover, now the head gasket blew. I think I can do this myself... any advise?
Frank Garay

Its unusual for head gaskets to let go on standard engines. Best to try to find the cause before replacing it.
Fitting a new gasket is an easy job, but scraping every last trace of old lacquer and gasket off the mating faces is a bit of a pain. New gasket is fitted without sealant- the lacquer acts as a glue. Loosen the head nuts from the ends inwards, and tighten to recommended torque (90 foot pounds IIRC) in steps working from middle studs outwards.
P H Cobbold

Hi Frank

What year is your car?

You do need crankcase ventilation of some sort. Some of the later models emissions were designed to reduce head temperatures?

Depending on the year of car. What all did you pull?

Unless the engine overheated head gasket should be a straight forward replacement following the the manual. If your compression is good across board and no oil burn thats about it. If there are any problems head related thats the time to do them.

Check the piston tops for carbon buildup and clean.

That engine is pretty reliable for head gaskets so I would have a good look all around.

Bill
Bill Brayford

Head gaskets just about NEVER blow for no reason. At least get your head crack tested ($45) and checked for flat. It's only a $100 (even here!) for crack test and skim - I won't do cylinder head work for anyone w/o checking these two things as it's too fundamental. Peter
Peter G

If you do end up taking off the head, they can be a real bear to remove on the TR6. You will probably have to remove the studs before it will budge. I poured alot of penetrating oil down the studs for a couple of days then removed them with vice grips or a stud remover. You have to be careful or you'll ruin the studs, (you might try wrapping the jaws with tape). Then I pushed some nylon rope in the #2 spark plug hole and turned the engine over with a wrench on the damper pulley. She popped right off.
D.W. Campbell

D.W what is the reasoning behind the rope?? whouldn't the compression alone blow the head off with a few cranks?
Steven

The idea behind the rope is that it fills up the compression chamber - when the piston rises, it pushes on the rope and the resulting compression pushes up on the head to break it loose. (HOWEVER - make certain that the push rods have been removed and the valve train is off - you don't want to push up on a valve that is sticking down.)
R.C. Blair

Some people advocate cranking the motor over with the starter (using the rope trick) to dislodge the head. Personally I think it best to use a socket and wrench on the damper pulley. You have more control and less chance of something expensive breaking.
Doug C.
D.W. Campbell

On that last wheeze - cranking with oil (or rope!) in the chamber - if I could post pictures here I could show you a BENT conrod - caused by just that.

I agree with Mr.Campbell. If the head is stuck, it is stuck to the studs, not the block. Remove the studs, if necessary by welding a nut to the top. Studs are cheap, compared to skimming a damaged head, that may be skimmed already.
John
JohnD

This thread was discussed between 13/04/2003 and 22/04/2003

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